installed tach, now no power
FIRST THING
Check the battery clamps
Wiggle the "crap" out of the bulkhead connector with slight switch on, look for lights or a "flicker"
Check the fuse link
===========================================
You can take a look at the Mad electrical ammeter bypass article
http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml
Whether you plan to do this or not, their simplified diagram gives you a great overview:
All power goes (actually electrons flow from the neg but I'm talking "concept")
Battery.......starter relay junction............fuse link......through the bulkhead connector
Look at your fuse panel diagram you posted........
The top left "3 fuses" that top buss there comes FROM the key "accessory."
So probe the small buss that fees the two fuses in the middle Those should be hot all the time
Likewise, you can probe the feed to the ignition switch connector, should be hot all the time.
There is only so many possibilities.........
BAD BATTERY CLAMPS
Blown fuse link
Bad connections in bulkhead connector
(READ THE MAD article)
Bad connections at ammeter or bad ammeter
Bad connections at the welded splice. Leave this for last. It is rare but has happened
So check you have it there going into the bulkhead connector on the engine bay side. Just follow the fuse link from the starter relay, RED wire and probe that cavity
From there goes to ammeter ...........through ammeter ........and changes to BLACK
Now a few inches from the ammeter the BLACK wire has the big main welded SPLICE
From there it branches off to
headlight switch
fuse panel hot buss
main feed TO ignition switch
Your trouble is like in this area of main power
FIRST THING
Check the battery clamps
Wiggle the "crap" out of the bulkhead connector with slight switch on, look for lights or a "flicker"
Check the fuse link
===========================================
You can take a look at the Mad electrical ammeter bypass article
http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml
Whether you plan to do this or not, their simplified diagram gives you a great overview:
All power goes (actually electrons flow from the neg but I'm talking "concept")
Battery.......starter relay junction............fuse link......through the bulkhead connector
Look at your fuse panel diagram you posted........
The top left "3 fuses" that top buss there comes FROM the key "accessory."
So probe the small buss that fees the two fuses in the middle Those should be hot all the time
Likewise, you can probe the feed to the ignition switch connector, should be hot all the time.
There is only so many possibilities.........
BAD BATTERY CLAMPS
Blown fuse link
Bad connections in bulkhead connector
(READ THE MAD article)
Bad connections at ammeter or bad ammeter
Bad connections at the welded splice. Leave this for last. It is rare but has happened
So check you have it there going into the bulkhead connector on the engine bay side. Just follow the fuse link from the starter relay, RED wire and probe that cavity
From there goes to ammeter ...........through ammeter ........and changes to BLACK
Now a few inches from the ammeter the BLACK wire has the big main welded SPLICE
From there it branches off to
headlight switch
fuse panel hot buss
main feed TO ignition switch
Your trouble is like in this area of main power