Timing set woes

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CUDAGUY

aka Prince Valiant
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Pirating the double roller set off my 318 for my 273 build and got down to it and found what seems to be quite a bit of slop. Maybe Im wrong, but the thing only has 5-6,000 miles on it. Safe to use?
 

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How much rotational play at the crank? I don't remember lot's of guys use the tensioner off a Magnum. I believe you can put one on there
 
I had the same amount of slop with the chain in my 318. Only 5000 miles on it. I couldn't bring myself to put it on my new 360 build, so I picked up a new timing set.
 
Agreed, tho you might see how much dist play you have which'll tell you how much spark scatter you will be dealing with

It still ran fine, made enough power to do 40mph stab-n-steer sessions, had good idle. A rear main leak and a fuel issue (partly sheared off woodruff for the fuel pump eccentric as it turns out) is the reason for swapping motors.
 
of all the motors Ive been in, Ive never seen that. Factory thing?

Yes, there were different variations for the timing chain oiling.

I've seen many people block the oil feed hole when assembling, that makes the chain stretch more...
 
What is the brand of that T/C? I've seen the cheaper TRW double roller chains develop stretch like that after not very many miles. I'd put a new Cloyes double roller on and not worry about it. Too much slop in my opinion.
 
Safe to use? Yes. Not a ton of slop there so maybe a couple of degrees of cam variation; put the damper on and see how much you can turn the crank back and forth 'til the slop is taken up one way and then the other. Then check to see how much the movement on the damper mark equates to degrees on the timing cover marks. If this was a low performance engine, I would use it.

And if the block mains were align honed, then any chain will have a bit of slop in it.
 
If we are speaking of the OE bolt in the top pass cam plate hole, that bolt has an 1/8 hole in it. It is just a drip hole. Some eng had that & some had the angled drip tray and reportedly some had both. I drill a .015" hole in the freeze plug in the front of the pass horizontle oil gallery then a ~1/2" hole in the cam plate in front of it for room so it can squirt out under pressure to the chain. that bit is the size of a strand of hair & go REAL slow & bathe the bit with oil. I also drill that same hole in a speedway motors 3/8 NPT alum pipe plug to go in the rear of the dr horizontle oil gallery to lube the intergear. when you preoil you will see the squirt & (likely) be convinced of its bennie.
 
What is the brand of that T/C? I've seen the cheaper TRW double roller chains develop stretch like that after not very many miles. I'd put a new Cloyes double roller on and not worry about it. Too much slop in my opinion.

This was the top of the line Cloyes ($120) 10-years ago

Safe to use? Yes. Not a ton of slop there so maybe a couple of degrees of cam variation; put the damper on and see how much you can turn the crank back and forth 'til the slop is taken up one way and then the other. Then check to see how much the movement on the damper mark equates to degrees on the timing cover marks. If this was a low performance engine, I would use it.

And if the block mains were align honed, then any chain will have a bit of slop in it.

Im assuming something with the cam to crank centerline, I put it on the 273 and the slack became less... It didnt go away but its significantly less. The brand new parts store stocker I had is on the 318 and it still has a decent amount of slop.
 
I had same issue with my 360. I got the timing chain tensioner from Mancini and it tightened up slack and smoothed out the idle also.
 
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