Build me a 800hp NA 512 b block using pump gas

Fullbore71, Well what you seem to be thinking is not to far off. As far as bigger is always better, well that depends on the heads you will run. Remember it is an air pump and you have to be able to feed it. Im not apposed to bigger by any means what so ever. Tom Molnar at Molnar Technologies has really nice cranks and rods. All he builds and I can tell you his stuff is top shelf at a little more than eagle money really. I can see a 512 being built. I agree with the girdle part. Also do not shy away from at least a half fill in the block. Do you have the aluminum or billet main caps? Not a fan of the aluminum caps. Many say they act as a spring and soak up the load in the bottom end. But if your balance job is right then you should not have any vibrations. On top of that the bottom needs to be as tough as possible. Depending on how you build this animal, 800 is possible. Wont be easy to get it out of that but it is possible. I am assuming you will be 4.250 by 4.380. Thats not a bad bore stroke combo. Another thing to pay attention to is in the block, take the time with a burr bit and go after all the casting flash you can get to. In the valley, the cam tunnel, the block skirts all of it. This can help relieve stress risers as well as get rid of anything that can come loose over the course of the engines life. If you fill the block leave the cam bearings in it and a cam shaft. It is not un common to have cam fitment issues with the older blocks. Even more so after they have had a core shift. Most certianly go with a swinging pick up. If you end up oiling like a chevy for the top end make sure you bush the lifter bores for good oil control. That also keeps more in the bottom where you want it. Go with a chevy 2.200 rod journal. That makes your rod bearings cheaper and slows the bearing speed down. Get huge and heavy push rods. Smith brothers are wonderful. Do not worry about weight there. Going light there does no good. Look at todays Pro Stock cars, their push rods are huge by large so they dont deflect through out the power band. You can actually lose lift with a whimpy .080 wall push rod. If you can get it to the point, try to put the piston about .018 in the hole. That will be predicated on your accurate deck height from the machine shop, then rod and crank length. Do the math and get your Compression distance. Have it in the hole so you can run a .027 cometic and get rid of some dead zone as well as promote a better flame front. You will be in a solid roller. So a good stick from comp or whom ever, good lifters and stout springs. Ti retainers and try to set up for lash caps. You dont need ti valves, but a good Ferrea or Manley sever Duty for example. I am obviously rambling at this point so I should stop. But I can tell you it can be done. I have one 498 out of this shop with Victor heads, and is fuel injected making 812 at 7800. But it is a lot of work and a lot of attention to detail. Want to make the power really easy then get your hands on a B! PSO head lol or the predators, but be prepared to open your wallet very wide.