three suspension questions
1. Most of the aftermarket strut rods out there are pretty much the same, adjustable with a steel shaft and a heim joint at the K member end. PST, Hotchkis, RMS all use that formula. Firm Feel doesn't use a heim, their set up looks just like a stock style strut rod except the ends thread in to make it adjustable, putting the articulation on the bushings like stock. And QA1, which uses the same heim type set up as the others, except they use an aluminum tube instead of steel. I think the heim set ups allow for less binding, but you do have to clock the heims right. As for the QA1's using aluminum, I have a set of aluminum adjustable strut rods on my Challenger. They're the same design as the QA1's, made by the company QA1 bought out (CAP). They have over 50k miles on them with 1.12" torsion bars, and I beat the crap out of my Challenger, it was my daily until I started driving the Duster, and it's seen plenty of dirt roads and snow in that time. So, the aluminum isn't an issue. I also don't think it's a significant advantage, so, whatever way you want to go.
2. The 002/003 SS springs are in the 150 to 160 lb/in range. Too stiff to run with a rear sway bar. They also aren't the same side to side, with a different # of leafs, different arch, and spring rate side to side. If you want to use them, use two of the same side. Even the "lower arch" side sits the rear end pretty high up in the air though. They're for drag racing, not handling.
The A-body XHD springs are 110 lb/in. Most of the handling springs are set up to be around 130 lb/in. The mopar oval track springs are available again, they're 120 lb/in and work well with a sway bar. I have a set of AFCO springs on my Duster, basically the same as the Mopar oval track springs at 121 lb/in and zero arch. I run them with a Hellwig rear sway bar.
3. You might want to check out this thread if you don't mind cutting and welding. I shortened my steering shaft, welded in a 1" DD section with a telescoping joint and installed a Borgeson damped coupler. Does require a little cutting and welding.
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=228107
1. Most of the aftermarket strut rods out there are pretty much the same, adjustable with a steel shaft and a heim joint at the K member end. PST, Hotchkis, RMS all use that formula. Firm Feel doesn't use a heim, their set up looks just like a stock style strut rod except the ends thread in to make it adjustable, putting the articulation on the bushings like stock. And QA1, which uses the same heim type set up as the others, except they use an aluminum tube instead of steel. I think the heim set ups allow for less binding, but you do have to clock the heims right. As for the QA1's using aluminum, I have a set of aluminum adjustable strut rods on my Challenger. They're the same design as the QA1's, made by the company QA1 bought out (CAP). They have over 50k miles on them with 1.12" torsion bars, and I beat the crap out of my Challenger, it was my daily until I started driving the Duster, and it's seen plenty of dirt roads and snow in that time. So, the aluminum isn't an issue. I also don't think it's a significant advantage, so, whatever way you want to go.
2. The 002/003 SS springs are in the 150 to 160 lb/in range. Too stiff to run with a rear sway bar. They also aren't the same side to side, with a different # of leafs, different arch, and spring rate side to side. If you want to use them, use two of the same side. Even the "lower arch" side sits the rear end pretty high up in the air though. They're for drag racing, not handling.
The A-body XHD springs are 110 lb/in. Most of the handling springs are set up to be around 130 lb/in. The mopar oval track springs are available again, they're 120 lb/in and work well with a sway bar. I have a set of AFCO springs on my Duster, basically the same as the Mopar oval track springs at 121 lb/in and zero arch. I run them with a Hellwig rear sway bar.
3. You might want to check out this thread if you don't mind cutting and welding. I shortened my steering shaft, welded in a 1" DD section with a telescoping joint and installed a Borgeson damped coupler. Does require a little cutting and welding.
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=228107