440 into a /6 duster
denting was necessary because of trying to make the headers fit while installing them from the top instead
of assembling everything on the K-frame outside of the car before inserting it from the bottom as a complete
engine/trans/headers unit?
My point being that any "necessary adjustments" will be easier and less severe if the out of car assembly
method is used intitially to identify any clearance issues. Tighter tollarences can be used if trying to make
everything fit prior to installation instead of during installation because nothing has to move once bolted
together.
If the assembly is on the floor and there is an area that requires a major header pipe repositioning you can
mark and change a small section of the header instead of beating it severly.
If your not handy with a welder (I'm not) you can take the header to a local race car builder/fabricator with
simple instructions of how you need the pipe moved.
We have done 440's also and here is one with, I believe, Pro-Parts headers that do have some strategically
placed albeit smaller dents around the steering shaft like the ones zac F71 posted. I suppose the fact that he
is using RB headers on a B swap accounts for the more dramatic issue at the steering arm.
True, but the pictures posted by zac F71 also depicted a 383 swap and I'm curious if the severe header
denting was necessary because of trying to make the headers fit while installing them from the top instead
of assembling everything on the K-frame outside of the car before inserting it from the bottom as a complete
engine/trans/headers unit?
My point being that any "necessary adjustments" will be easier and less severe if the out of car assembly
method is used intitially to identify any clearance issues. Tighter tollarences can be used if trying to make
everything fit prior to installation instead of during installation because nothing has to move once bolted
together.
If the assembly is on the floor and there is an area that requires a major header pipe repositioning you can
mark and change a small section of the header instead of beating it severly.
If your not handy with a welder (I'm not) you can take the header to a local race car builder/fabricator with
simple instructions of how you need the pipe moved.
We have done 440's also and here is one with, I believe, Pro-Parts headers that do have some strategically
placed albeit smaller dents around the steering shaft like the ones zac F71 posted. I suppose the fact that he
is using RB headers on a B swap accounts for the more dramatic issue at the steering arm.