Need help, advice with my 318 build
Sorry for a very slow reply. But I have been busy lately.
I'm done with the grinding the ports. I have left some polishing of the exhaust ports and maybe the chambers. Have cc one chamber at 61cc. But I'm little worried that I removed little to much at the "short turn radius" at my exhaust port. Since It's good to have material left there for the seat because it gets warm there. Didn't remeber where I read it and the whole info at it either. What do you guys think based on my pics at the exhaust port?
Didn't remove to much at the valve stem guide.
This is what I ordered from ebay to help me reach in the ports. I ordered the whole set. They aren't the best but for the money they are really good for what i used it to. And you can port a set of heads with them if you want to they will last. It will loose some "teeth's" even if you are careful and takes it slow and the finish aren't the best but that's maybe because the long shank makes it shake and jump easier. I cut mine shorter so they reach just enough for what I wanted. I also had some better burrs to make the ports smoother.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-4-Shank-6...hash=item3f4f93d8d8:m:mvARkyXiaj0_U7w3zU7xwrQ
Have also begun with building headers.
Made two forming dies from aluminum. I first press the tube in the vice so it's fit in the forming die, then I press the tube in to the forming die in the vice. When the tube reach the "bottom" I use some rounded bar and hammered the corners so the tube fitted nicely at the corners.
I also opened the flange so the tube would fit in the flange port opening. It didn't fit at all the flange port opening was to small.
When I opened the port opening at the flange I made it in the direction so the exhaust will flow smooth at the roof at the port but made so I got a anti reversion dam at the outside and bottom. In the middle is where it will be flow restriction. But that's better than before I opened the flange up. Because if I have jammed the tube in there it would be even more restriction than now.
This is the bent tubes I'm going to use. The material I going to use is 0.1" thick. So it will not rust away as fast as the most headers that's made of exhaust tubing thickness.
Sorry for a very slow reply. But I have been busy lately.
I'm done with the grinding the ports. I have left some polishing of the exhaust ports and maybe the chambers. Have cc one chamber at 61cc. But I'm little worried that I removed little to much at the "short turn radius" at my exhaust port. Since It's good to have material left there for the seat because it gets warm there. Didn't remeber where I read it and the whole info at it either. What do you guys think based on my pics at the exhaust port?
Didn't remove to much at the valve stem guide.
This is what I ordered from ebay to help me reach in the ports. I ordered the whole set. They aren't the best but for the money they are really good for what i used it to. And you can port a set of heads with them if you want to they will last. It will loose some "teeth's" even if you are careful and takes it slow and the finish aren't the best but that's maybe because the long shank makes it shake and jump easier. I cut mine shorter so they reach just enough for what I wanted. I also had some better burrs to make the ports smoother.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-4-Shank-6...hash=item3f4f93d8d8:m:mvARkyXiaj0_U7w3zU7xwrQ
Have also begun with building headers.
Made two forming dies from aluminum. I first press the tube in the vice so it's fit in the forming die, then I press the tube in to the forming die in the vice. When the tube reach the "bottom" I use some rounded bar and hammered the corners so the tube fitted nicely at the corners.
I also opened the flange so the tube would fit in the flange port opening. It didn't fit at all the flange port opening was to small.
When I opened the port opening at the flange I made it in the direction so the exhaust will flow smooth at the roof at the port but made so I got a anti reversion dam at the outside and bottom. In the middle is where it will be flow restriction. But that's better than before I opened the flange up. Because if I have jammed the tube in there it would be even more restriction than now.
This is the bent tubes I'm going to use. The material I going to use is 0.1" thick. So it will not rust away as fast as the most headers that's made of exhaust tubing thickness.