Sons 300m and I need help please!

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Any updates on this? I feel invested now and would like to know what the solution was.
 
Sorry for the delay
Due to the need for a vehicle NOW with school and work (my son is in college at the local community and works 25+ hrs / week) we bought a 2003 Grand Am to fill his needs.
In the meantime, the 300 has been pulled into the garage and is waiting for me to pull the intake / valve covers to see whats going on in the top side.
I will update when I get it apart.
First, time for me to update my Yukon Denali. Mine is getting pretty worn and I do not want to be nickel and dimed to death on it.
It will be gone before Christmas.
 
Just a couple of quik tips,fuel pressure is all you need to get an eng. to start,flow
volume is only important in maintaining that pressure once it is running.
Many many times engines that have been cranked repeatedly trying to start them
have contaminated oil when fuel was present w/no fire,which can cause low oil press. and
damage if run too long.This also screws up the A/F mix when the PCV system admits fuel
heavy vapors in. The hydraulic valvetrain adj. also get bled down on repeated cranking,then
stopping on an open valve,whose spring promply pushes more oil out ,these can take forever
to pump back up sometimes,esp. if the oil press./quality is poor,may or may not be your noise.
Good luck and let us know what goes on, :coffee2:
 
So the story continues:
We deemed the Chrysler to have a bad rod bearing.
After a quick search, my wife and I decided to purchase a "new" used car for him.
Got a good deal on a 2003 Grand Am GT with low miles...Car runs like a champ.
Over the winter, I continued to delve into the 300m to see what where the problem was.
We continued to hear sounds from the top passenger side of the motor.
4 1/2 hours later, had the valve cover off and it was clean enough to eat left overs on.
Some more research taught me the oil pan is a 3 layer pan. 2 aluminum and 1 rubber in between to deaden noises. That is why I could not hear the bottom end.
#5 rod bearing spun. Crank looks good and so does the rod BUT I do not have a Micrometer to put on it.
Questions are,
Can I put new rod bearings in (~ $50 for the set) and move on? Engine had/has 50 psi oil even now.
IF not, what does need to be done? Not for the perfect rebuild, but to put it back on the road with confidence...
 
When the water pump went south on mine and threw metal into the bottom end I put a crank kit in from oreileys. It was crank and all bearings. It ran about $250 Total with oem water pump and tensioner along with guides and gaskets and new motor mounts hoses and plugs and oil
Pump came to $900. So far about 500 miles on it without trouble.
 
Spun a rod bearing and the cap looks good? Usually that's a lack of oil to the journal. If thats all that happened and the cap didnt open up, you could get by with a std. bearing from rockauto for $5.60. Thats hardly anything to lose, but Id be a little leary on the condition of the rod big end. Mic a good cap across the spread and compare.

http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...v6,1371664,engine,connecting+rod+bearing,5212

I had a 1996 Breeze 2.0 that just dies one day, it was the cam sensor harness, completely shorted/burned/fused together. New sensor, peeled the harness apart and spliced in some new wire (telco by trade :)) and ran it for another year.
 
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