I'm just frustrated at this point because the motor really needs to have its 112 compression and blowby fixed. I was just going to do a light freshen up and run it till I have the time and money for a better motor.
If you can determine which rod is the culprit, that's really the only bearing that needs changed. Plasti gage is optional, but never a bad idea. Personally, I'd skip it, if the motor turns over after the new bearing is in and the cap orientation is verified.