Charging system and other wiring change help needed
Ok, After beating myself up for a few weeks and going back and forth with what would be the best way to do this I decided to buy a new 4 post cut off switch and go with this,
The only change I have made is instead of running a cable from the starter back to the starter relay I ran a second cable from the cut off switch to the starter relay. Both wires from the cut off switch coming forward are #2 cable. My only reason for that change was it makes it easier to hide the cables from view. In order to go thru the firewall I am using this feed thru connector from NAPA which is mounted up under drivers side of dash just behind the vent. Pic below shows it on the left side. Also you can see where I mounted the starter relay.
The one with stud/lug only will go to starter from other side and on the starter relay is the 2nd cable from cut off switch.
Now from the starter relay on the same main stud I ran a 10 gauge wire that I put in a 50 amp maxi fuse that went to the continuous duty solenoid (A terminal). The solenoid is mounted just above the voltage regulator under the passenger compartment kick panel. see pic below. You cant see solenoid but its above regulator and to the right.
Now off the same post (A terminal) on the continuous duty solenoid I ran the alt wire (8 Gauge). The field wire from the Alternator is 14 gauge to the field side of the regulator. I hid the Alternator wires inside a 1/2" aluminum tube in pic below.
Then from the Regulators Ignition side is a 14 gauge to the "b" side of the duty solenoid.
I will power the duty solenoid with a 14 gauge wire that will be the bulkhead Af/VR"i"/Ballast wire back to the cut off switch then from the cut off switch with a 14 gauge back to the duty solenoid power feed.
So I am hoping all this will work and that my wiring thoughts will be heavy enough. With everything under the dash my runs are very short.
If this will be OK then the only thing I need to do in order to start this would be to wire the ignition box up.
The question I have with this ignition box is why do they have a heavy red wire that needs to be hot at all times? Will this draw any current when key is off since they want it to battery power?
Crossing my fingers that I get to start this thing this weekend!!
Thanks Rod
Ok, After beating myself up for a few weeks and going back and forth with what would be the best way to do this I decided to buy a new 4 post cut off switch and go with this,
The only change I have made is instead of running a cable from the starter back to the starter relay I ran a second cable from the cut off switch to the starter relay. Both wires from the cut off switch coming forward are #2 cable. My only reason for that change was it makes it easier to hide the cables from view. In order to go thru the firewall I am using this feed thru connector from NAPA which is mounted up under drivers side of dash just behind the vent. Pic below shows it on the left side. Also you can see where I mounted the starter relay.
The one with stud/lug only will go to starter from other side and on the starter relay is the 2nd cable from cut off switch.
Now from the starter relay on the same main stud I ran a 10 gauge wire that I put in a 50 amp maxi fuse that went to the continuous duty solenoid (A terminal). The solenoid is mounted just above the voltage regulator under the passenger compartment kick panel. see pic below. You cant see solenoid but its above regulator and to the right.
Now off the same post (A terminal) on the continuous duty solenoid I ran the alt wire (8 Gauge). The field wire from the Alternator is 14 gauge to the field side of the regulator. I hid the Alternator wires inside a 1/2" aluminum tube in pic below.
Then from the Regulators Ignition side is a 14 gauge to the "b" side of the duty solenoid.
I will power the duty solenoid with a 14 gauge wire that will be the bulkhead Af/VR"i"/Ballast wire back to the cut off switch then from the cut off switch with a 14 gauge back to the duty solenoid power feed.
So I am hoping all this will work and that my wiring thoughts will be heavy enough. With everything under the dash my runs are very short.
If this will be OK then the only thing I need to do in order to start this would be to wire the ignition box up.
The question I have with this ignition box is why do they have a heavy red wire that needs to be hot at all times? Will this draw any current when key is off since they want it to battery power?
Crossing my fingers that I get to start this thing this weekend!!
Thanks Rod