Slant crankshaft damper and pulleys
While adding an AC compressor to my 64 slant engine, I found little info on the pulleys. This post collates info to help others. The best existing post w/ photos I found was
www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=37541
All factory AC setups ran the compressor off an "aft pulley": RV-2, Sanden (~79 Volare/Aspen), and I think the 1980's Chrysler round compressor. This pulley bolts to the aft side of the crank damper, using 3 bolt holes, I assume the larger 3/8-18 bolt holes (I did). The aft pulley has a larger center hole to fit over the timing cover snout. You must remove the damper to install it. It sits very close to the timing cover, nestling between the X, but doesn't drag in my car. If missing the oil slinger inside the cover, your damper would pull in a little closer, so might then drag. The pulley should also not touch the outer damper ring, since that must be free to oscillate. Neither my 64 or 74 engines had the aft pulley, so I bought one from a member here, after research determined what I needed.
If power steering, a fwd pulley bolts to the front of the damper (left in photo 1), using the smaller 3 bolt holes (5/16"?), at least one I took from both a 63 Dart and ~79 Volare were mounted thus. It can be added without removing the damper.
Some aftermarket kits apparently installed a 2-groove fwd pulley to run the AC belt on the fwd groove. I recall making that out in one kit's drawing. Also, I have such a pulley from a 74 slant and don't think even CA ran smog pumps then.
Finally, the rubber on the 74 damper was cracked badly, so I thought best to replace it. The two pieces pressed apart quite easy in a shop press, and surprisingly the rubber didn't appear bonded to the metal. The rubber was actually degraded only at the outer edges, so the damper might have lasted like that for a long time. Of course, I marked each side before removing. I reinstalled the parts using PL1 black polyurethane caulk, which I have used to fill motor mounts in my M-B cars. It will have years to fully cure (spare).
For those browsing for damper info, the 64's front photo has the TDC mark at the top. Its timing cover has a removable degree tab on the driver's side. The 74 damper has a welded degree tab on the passenger side, so its mark is in a different place (rel. to crank key). I bolted up both timing covers and placed each resp. damper, and both agreed on TDC within 1 deg, so doesn't appear either damper outer ring slipped. Note that the crank bolt I installed is not original to my 64 engine. It is just for rotating the crank w/ a wrench, and does nothing to secure the damper. I would need to add a large OD washer to do so.
BTW, my AC plans are to first try mounting a Sanden off the "3-bolt power steering pad", using custom brackets I will fab from a "mounting ears" kit ($50). If I ever add power steering, I will switch to Volare Sanden brackets I have. I don't like the extra weight and how close it comes to my battery, so not my first choice.
While adding an AC compressor to my 64 slant engine, I found little info on the pulleys. This post collates info to help others. The best existing post w/ photos I found was
www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=37541
All factory AC setups ran the compressor off an "aft pulley": RV-2, Sanden (~79 Volare/Aspen), and I think the 1980's Chrysler round compressor. This pulley bolts to the aft side of the crank damper, using 3 bolt holes, I assume the larger 3/8-18 bolt holes (I did). The aft pulley has a larger center hole to fit over the timing cover snout. You must remove the damper to install it. It sits very close to the timing cover, nestling between the X, but doesn't drag in my car. If missing the oil slinger inside the cover, your damper would pull in a little closer, so might then drag. The pulley should also not touch the outer damper ring, since that must be free to oscillate. Neither my 64 or 74 engines had the aft pulley, so I bought one from a member here, after research determined what I needed.
If power steering, a fwd pulley bolts to the front of the damper (left in photo 1), using the smaller 3 bolt holes (5/16"?), at least one I took from both a 63 Dart and ~79 Volare were mounted thus. It can be added without removing the damper.
Some aftermarket kits apparently installed a 2-groove fwd pulley to run the AC belt on the fwd groove. I recall making that out in one kit's drawing. Also, I have such a pulley from a 74 slant and don't think even CA ran smog pumps then.
Finally, the rubber on the 74 damper was cracked badly, so I thought best to replace it. The two pieces pressed apart quite easy in a shop press, and surprisingly the rubber didn't appear bonded to the metal. The rubber was actually degraded only at the outer edges, so the damper might have lasted like that for a long time. Of course, I marked each side before removing. I reinstalled the parts using PL1 black polyurethane caulk, which I have used to fill motor mounts in my M-B cars. It will have years to fully cure (spare).
For those browsing for damper info, the 64's front photo has the TDC mark at the top. Its timing cover has a removable degree tab on the driver's side. The 74 damper has a welded degree tab on the passenger side, so its mark is in a different place (rel. to crank key). I bolted up both timing covers and placed each resp. damper, and both agreed on TDC within 1 deg, so doesn't appear either damper outer ring slipped. Note that the crank bolt I installed is not original to my 64 engine. It is just for rotating the crank w/ a wrench, and does nothing to secure the damper. I would need to add a large OD washer to do so.
BTW, my AC plans are to first try mounting a Sanden off the "3-bolt power steering pad", using custom brackets I will fab from a "mounting ears" kit ($50). If I ever add power steering, I will switch to Volare Sanden brackets I have. I don't like the extra weight and how close it comes to my battery, so not my first choice.
