Heater box cable questions

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moparmat2000

moparmat2000

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HI Y'all,

I am in the process of restoring my factory non A/C heater box. I removed and cleaned up the control cables and upon dissassembly, i marked each cable with tape, and put a corresponding mark on the heater box. I have since cleaned the heater box and all the markings got removed,

Now for the big question. Since these cables are all different lengths, does anybody know which length cable attached to which door mechanism on the box? From there i can figure out where they attach at the dash.

Thanks
Matt
 
I think my 67 parts car may still have that same setup. I will look and get back to you
 
Almost positive the shorter cable goes to the heat/defrost lever and at the drivers end of the box, and the longer one is temp control at the passenger end of the box.
 
moparmat2000 said:
Theres 3 cables. All 3 are different lengths
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Huh, my car only has two.
Maybe a coolant shut off valve? because my car doesn't have that either.
Just a door to close off the outside air from coming through it.
 
See Here..Gang Green 68 GTS
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Man, i would love to clearcoat the heater box housing like you did moparmitch. Problem is nine has so much composite damage that i have to repair, i will have to just have to repaint it semigloss black.

Trailbeast, my 67 cuda , and a 69 dart i used to own years ago are both 3 cable setups. That may have changed by your model year. Is your car a 73-74 ??
 
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I also have pics of the cable routing before the box actually came out of the car, if you need that. Most pics are in my Build thread. Not sure if those particular ones are there or not.
 
MOPARMITCH said:
I also have pics of the cable routing before the box actually came out of the car, if you need that. Most pics are in my Build thread. Not sure if those particular ones are there or not.
Click to expand...

A pic of that would be great. I noticed yours are color coded. My 67 ones are not. Must have been a fix for assembly line reasons.
 
moparmat2000 said:
Man, i would love to clearcoat the heater box housing like you did moparmitch. Problem is nine has so much composite damage tgatbi have to repair, i will have to just have t repaint it semigloss black.

Trailbeast, my 67 cuda , and a 69 dart i used to own years ago are both 3 cable setups. That may have changed by your model year. Is your car a 73-74 ??
Click to expand...

Yep, 73 and satin black ain't so bad.

heater ready.jpg
 
moparmat2000 said:
A pic of that would be great. I noticed yours are color coded. My 67 ones are not. Must have been a fix for assembly line reasons.
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The red coded on is the longest. The two yellow coded ones , I think are the same length ( or very close to it ). Here are the before removal pics as I was removing the dash Assy.
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Incidentally the nylon pins that are used in the non A/C type heat and defrost controller that the cable ends tie to, mine were so dryrotted i fabricated new ones out of steel drill shank, and machined and pressed on spacers for the space between the levers, and used small locking collars with set screws to hold the cables on. A bit of white lube everything slides like new. The locking collars i will use for the cables at the heater box end instead of those hokey little snap on spring steel washers.
 
moparmat2000 said:
Incidentally the nylon pins that are used in the non A/C type heat and defrost controller that the cable ends tie to, mine were so dryrotted i fabricated new ones out of steel drill shank, and machined and pressed on spacers for the space between the levers, and used small locking collars with set screws to hold the cables on. A bit of white lube everything slides like new. The locking collars i will use for the cables at the heater box end instead of those hokey little snap on spring steel washers.
Click to expand...
Sweet............This helps. THX
 
moparmat2000 said:
Incidentally the nylon pins that are used in the non A/C type heat and defrost controller that the cable ends tie to, mine were so dryrotted i fabricated new ones out of steel drill shank, and machined and pressed on spacers for the space between the levers, and used small locking collars with set screws to hold the cables on. A bit of white lube everything slides like new. The locking collars i will use for the cables at the heater box end instead of those hokey little snap on spring steel washers.
Click to expand...
Do you have closeup pics on the replaced pins installed with the spacers? THX
 
Mike69barracuda said:
Do you have closeup pics on the replaced pins installed with the spacers? THX
Click to expand...

At this point no i dont. Once i restored the dash and dash wiring and reassembled it, i wrapped it in an old bed sheet, then wrapped that in bubble wrap, and put it in a large cardboard shipping box for storage until i'm ready to reinstall it.

Its been so long i'm not sure if i used a #21 or #10 drill shank to make them. I cut the drill shank long enough so after the cable is attached theres room for the collar on top. The collars were made from aviation type spring drill stops. Just remove the spring, and tip. Keep the collar and set screw. I got them from brown aviation tool supply. About $2.75 each. See pic below.

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moparmat2000 said:
At this point no i dont. Once i restored the dash and dash wiring and reassembled it, i wrapped it in an old bed sheet, then wrapped that in bubble wrap, and put it in a large cardboard shipping box for storage until i'm ready to reinstall it.

Its been so long i'm not sure if i used a #21 or #10 drill shank to make them. I cut the drill shank long enough so after the cable is attached theres room for the collar on top. The collars were made from aviation type spring drill stops. Just remove the spring, and tip. Keep the collar and set screw. I got them from brown aviation tool supply. About $2.75 each. See pic below.

View attachment 1714945618
Click to expand...
Thanks!
 
I checked the blend door setup for my currently dissassembled heater box. It will use a #10 drill stop collar. Since both ends of the cables are the same diameter, a #10 drill shank is what i probably used to make the slider pins for the heater controller in the dash.

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  1. Heater box clamshell was so warped on one end i had to perform surgery to unwarp it. 47 year old fiberglass if nothing else is brittle as hell. I figured out where to make the cuts with an air operated whiz wheel, then vise grip clamped it together to make it hold its correct shape, put aluminum tape on the inside temporarily, and filled the outside at the top with JB weld and cured it with a heat lamp, after that i sanded the JB weld down, and added the blue epoxy filler putty. Once that was dry i shaped it, and i added fiberglass cloth and resin on the inside and outside where the cuts are and reclamped it together until it all dries, then its back to sanding some more and prep for paint. I used a mould release between the 2 halves so they can be taken back apart.

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A bit more sanding to shape the fiberglass, add a skim coat of evercoat, a bit more sanding, and some sandable filler primer. Once thats dry, some more sanding, and i will shoot a coat of semigloss black on it. I realize this side of the heater box is not seen on installation, however i will know its there.
 
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