is this garbage necessary?

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Neal Zimmerman

Neal Zimmerman

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factory ac car, ac long gone except heater box (which i want to replace with a non/ac box).
Anyhoo, is this crap necessary for heating or is it ac related and can go away?
I have the under dash ac vent box if anybody needs it.
neal

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The vacuum diaphragm is the heater control valve. Kinda need that if you want heat.
 
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On most these girls, you cannot just swap in a "non AC" heater as the firewall is different. You MIGHT find a smaller, modern "universal" heater

So far as the vacuum valve, that's a "good" thing, at least some form of valve. All the NON AC cars had no valve, that is, the core ran "hot" all the time. Regardless if there was no airflow, it HAD to radiate "some" heat into the engine bay in hot weather.

There are folks who make "repop" firewall sections if you want to cut the firewall and convert it to a "non" AC car
 
My understanding is with non-AC cars coolant is always flowing through the heater core in the heater box and that valve that you have pictured is not used.
Cars with AC had the valve to stop coolant flow through the heater core when the AC was on.
 
Its certainly not "crap". If that valve works, doesn't leak vacuum or water, another member will want it.
 
I am thinking that "valve" started showing up on non ac cars bout 72 maybe??? yes if it works, it is good. would not the difference in ac and non ac firewalls be the location of the holes that mount the boxes, and the location for the heater hoses basically. I have replaced firewalls to make a correct non ac car but I would think some cutting, welding, and drilling, filling could get it done too? then ya need the non ac box. I would just get the non ac firewall and weld that in...done.
 
barbee6043 said:
I am thinking that "valve" started showing up on non ac cars bout 72 maybe??? yes if it works, it is good. would not the difference in ac and non ac firewalls be the location of the holes that mount the boxes, and the location for the heater hoses basically. I have replaced firewalls to make a correct non ac car but I would think some cutting, welding, and drilling, filling could get it done too? then ya need the non ac box. I would just get the non ac firewall and weld that in...done.
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Converting a non a/c firewall to a/c firewall requires cutting away metal at fan, adding holes, in a nut shell.., metal removal. Doing the opposite requires adding metal. Not as easy.
Then the pre 73 climate controllers and dash bezels for a/c and non a/c are very different.
 
This biggest issue you will have in tearing out the ac box for the non is the hole for the blower motor. the ac one has a larger hole so you will need to make a plate to cover it. You will also have a couple other extra holes in the fire wall to plug.
 
Decide if you are having a heater.
If you are you just need to switch off/on a vacuum signal to run this valve.
My 71 Swinger had this, and it takes a lot of
load off the AC.
If you keep this feature active, you do keep the heat load out of the interior in the summer.
Unless you need defogging.........
A manual operated vacuum switch to that valve would allow you to decide when you want heater core flow.
Or replace it with a manual pipe shutoff, I did that on the 65 Dart GT.
With that, I could always let it leak a tiny amount all summer for defog.
 
definitely not gonna start hacking up firewall, maybe i will just live with it. have never owned a mopar w/AC so I was mystified. On the other the dang thing probably leaks and doesn't work anyway
 
RustyRatRod said:
The vacuum diaphragm is the heater control valve. Kinda need that if you want heat.
Click to expand...

Or at least if you want to stop heat anyway.
Without that valve the heater box will always be hot even if you don't want to use the heater.
 
I have a 68 factory AC car. My valve was leaking by and the actuator was also no good. I replaced my valve and actuator with a non-factory setup. I was able to find a NOS valve but the actuator is more like a unicorn. I can send you a picture and try and dig up the order details for the valve I wound up using if you like. Send my a message if you would like me to do so.
 
Sorry but I still don't get it. Are u guys saying if I removed the discussed valve I will always have heat in my passenger compartment, or in other words a " hot core" all the time. I don't see how that's different than every other mopar i have owned that has water continually flowing through core.
I guess another way to ask is how, in all my previous mopars ,(which were all non-ac cars ),and always had a "hot core", what kept heat from continually filling passenger compartment?? In those cars was there a similar valve tucked up under dash?? I understand how if the core was continually hot that would sort of counteract the ac, but ac equipment has been gone for a long time.
Pardon my confusion and generally low grade of intelligence. Must have had lead in the water pipes of my school as a kid.
Neal
 
Neal Zimmerman said:
I guess another way to ask is how, in all my previous mopars ,(which were all non-ac cars ),and always had a "hot core", what kept heat from continually filling passenger compartment??
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A damper closes when you put the heat selector to cold, and of course the blower wouldn't be on either.

The heater core itself would continue to radiate some heat into the interior without the water shutoff valve.
 
the vintage air unit comes with an electric shut off. when the heater is off the valve is closed. I mounted it on the inside of the firewall so you can't see it.
 
Neal you are correct. Without the valve it will be just like every other older mopar with just heat
 
toplscuda said:
Neal you are correct. Without the valve it will be just like every other older mopar with just heat
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I didn`t have room for a blower motor, due to raised port heads. I put a hotrod heater up under the dash for defrosters. summit used to have a small 5/8" cable operated brass valve that would shut the coolant flow off. was an automotive looking part, instead of a plumbing part.
 
haha. after all this discussion i took off valve and looked it over good, its completely rusted up, in the open position. Are these made by anybody?
I sort of like just having a regular old stop **** under hood. You could shut it off when warmer, and open it up in the depth of winters
 
Neal Zimmerman said:
haha. after all this discussion i took off valve and looked it over good, its completely rusted up, in the open position. Are these made by anybody?
I sort of like just having a regular old stop **** under hood. You could shut it off when warmer, and open it up in the depth of winters
Click to expand...

Actually this is what some of us have done, regardless of AC or not. If the dampers are working properly, they pretty much close off the flow of hot air, BUT the core is still hot......in the heater box.......in the car, so it's radiating "some" heat into the car
 
67Dart273 said:
Actually this is what some of us have done, regardless of AC or not. If the dampers are working properly, they pretty much close off the flow of hot air, BUT the core is still hot......in the heater box.......in the car, so it's radiating "some" heat into the car
Click to expand...
You can find the valves. I was able to find a NOS valve. It was pricey. Around $100. The problem is finding the actuator if yours is shot.
 
i have a factory A/C car and when i did the V-8 swap i threw it all away and now i have no heat to the vents esp seeing there are no vacuum lines going to the control now.i can move the rods on the heater box to get heat here and there/now and then but they always seem to go back to the closed position so by passed the heater core for now.but i really want to fix it because it sucks on those early and end of year drives in the morning or night when you cant defrost your window
 
67Dart273 said:
Actually this is what some of us have done, regardless of AC or not. If the dampers are working properly, they pretty much close off the flow of hot air, BUT the core is still hot......in the heater box.......in the car, so it's radiating "some" heat into the car
Click to expand...

Ya mean like this? :D
(5/8 PEX brass ball valve)

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