66 Dart GT HT Whatsitgonnabe?
Today I've been really busy. First I spent a couple of hours on the computer. I ordered thread insert kits for M10 for our Audi UNC 5/16-18 and 3/8-16 for my LD340 intake. I tried to find taps for the heater and bypass hose fittings but they are silly expensive over here. Maybe I'll try again some day.
Then I started on the front end again. I knew the LCA ball joint hole was full of paint so I needed a good way of removing that without damaging the surface. I came up with a brilliant scheme.
I removed the taper from the extra lower ball joint I got a couple of months back and slotted the tapered surface with my angle grinder to create a makeshift broach. Then I did one for the upper ball joint hole in the spindle too. That worked better. I made twice as many slots. A key grip on the other end completed the tool.
After cleaning up the tapers it was all about sweat. The afternoon sun shines directly in through our garage door which makes it far too hot to work, really.
After fumbling a few times, forgetting the strut rod, cleaning paint off mating surfaces and finally getting the order right, I actually managed to finish the whole passenger side! Well, I haven't torqued the bolts but it's all there!
I need UCA bump stops.The old ones are complete garbage.
And hey, I used the first of the box of new UNC hardware you sent, Ray! Washers for the LCA bump stops! :thumbsup:
Some of you may remember that I got new strut rods from Ulf last winter. Well, it turns out that was a good thing. Some joker turned down my old ones and changed to a metric thread.
Today I've been really busy. First I spent a couple of hours on the computer. I ordered thread insert kits for M10 for our Audi UNC 5/16-18 and 3/8-16 for my LD340 intake. I tried to find taps for the heater and bypass hose fittings but they are silly expensive over here. Maybe I'll try again some day.
Then I started on the front end again. I knew the LCA ball joint hole was full of paint so I needed a good way of removing that without damaging the surface. I came up with a brilliant scheme.
I removed the taper from the extra lower ball joint I got a couple of months back and slotted the tapered surface with my angle grinder to create a makeshift broach. Then I did one for the upper ball joint hole in the spindle too. That worked better. I made twice as many slots. A key grip on the other end completed the tool.
After cleaning up the tapers it was all about sweat. The afternoon sun shines directly in through our garage door which makes it far too hot to work, really.
After fumbling a few times, forgetting the strut rod, cleaning paint off mating surfaces and finally getting the order right, I actually managed to finish the whole passenger side! Well, I haven't torqued the bolts but it's all there!
I need UCA bump stops.The old ones are complete garbage.
And hey, I used the first of the box of new UNC hardware you sent, Ray! Washers for the LCA bump stops! :thumbsup:
Some of you may remember that I got new strut rods from Ulf last winter. Well, it turns out that was a good thing. Some joker turned down my old ones and changed to a metric thread.