Lower control arm bushings*%#@#

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Would it be OK to use anti-seize lubricant when pressing in new bushings? This might make it easier for removal in the future.
 
Rocket said:
Well I had a second set lying around as well and removed the control arms and bushings. Took me around 30 minutes including clean up. Here are a few pictures of the steps including the tool mentioned above. All the tools are from American Muscle.
Click to expand...

Cool. Right tool for the job. Thanks for posting the pics.

I actually feel kind of stupid - now that I think about it, I actually have this tool! I never really figured out how to use it because I never received instructions with it and it wasn't obvious to me at first glance. That was about 7-8 years ago. I also cross-threaded the rod. Doh!
 
OK guys,

I am getting ready to replace the upper and lower bushings on my 71 Demon. I will get the tool described here but what about the new bushings?

What do you guys suggest for replacement bushings? Source? It is a straight line car.
 
You mean a drag car? If I wasn't driving on the street I would like use poly bushings. If it is a road car I would use moog problem solver offset rubber upper bushings and plain old common moog lower bushings.

There are many other ways to do it other than the posted tool. I have chiseled them out. Others have welded a washer to the end of the old shell and pressed them out. Some of the poly lower bushings need the original shell in place in the arm to work properly. I personally can't see spending the money on the tool when I know it can be done without it and I would only use it maybe once every 5 years.
 
Get one of these.
If you have one already, I can't imagine why you are having trouble.
http://www.harborfreight.com/catalog/product/view/id/475/category/430/
It will be one of the best 130 dollars you ever spent.

I got mine for 99 dollars but that was years ago.
The Chinese are getting more expensive.
Or maybe it's the Fed. money policy.

I use poly bushings. 100K and no trouble.
Other people don't like them, I know.
 

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Hammer and chisel, air hammer or weld a washer into the sleeve and press it out.

Lots of old threads getting rehashed lately.
 
If you have access to a press this works awesome. Got one for $15.00.
Not needed if you're using poly bushing since the shell stays in.
 

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hole saw and wire brush but i had to reuse the metal sleeves for the urethane one on the Jeep
 
OK, thanks for the advices. How does the rod that goes through the LCA bushing get removed? So if I use poly businngs I leave the sleeve in? This is my first try at the front suspension and the drag car needs the UCA and LCA bushings replaced. Probably too many wheelies in a previous life. Steering box sure is rough in the "straight ahead" position.
 
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Oooohh.....I'd never seen that setup! That's clean! I've always rolled with that welded-on flat washer trick!
 
Yeah that tap idea is nice! Is that 1-3/8" that I see on it?
 
Yes 1 3/8". When I looked on EBAY there were others.
Just put the tap in the vice and screw the arm onto it.
Makes a tough job simple.

airwoofer, I have not used the poly bushing but my understanding is it fits inside the shell so you don't remove it. All you do in that case is press out the inner part. The rubber then comes out easily with a screw driver.
 
I have new rubber bushings on order. What is the deal with the lower UCA pivot rod - how does it come out?

Man, early A body ball joints are high as hell. Where do they sell the rubber boots seperate?
 
Usually the pivot just pushes out with the rubber from the bushing. Then you have to remove the inner bushing shell off the pivot, but it isn't that big a deal.
 
airwoofer said:
I have new rubber bushings on order. What is the deal with the lower UCA pivot rod - how does it come out?

Man, early A body ball joints are high as hell. Where do they sell the rubber boots seperate?
Click to expand...

Surprised you'd have to order. Both NAPA and O'Reilly stock them locally. They have cheap and less cheap versions - identical.
 
I went to Autozone and O'Reilly here looking for the UCA ball joint socket and the joints themselves. They didn't have them. American Muscle and Mancini are gonna fix me up and reduce the weight of my wallet.

Downloaded the instructions for the LCA removal and disassembly. Now see what it takes to get the torsion bar cup off the lower shaft to get things apart.

This is a junk race car but I want it to drive straight and safe. I have not made pass one in it yet as I am rebuilding it and cleaning it up (bought as a rough roller). If I like it, maybe someday I will treat myself to some tubular control arms. Want to get the thing running for now as the local track is going to be running a bracket / index point series this year beginning in April. That is the first since 2009 when the economy shut down everything but TnT and occaisional pro-mod races.
 
I just rebuilt the Front Suspension on my 74 Dart Sport.

I used a Air Hammer to remove the UCA Bushings, and a Press to Install them.
The UCA Balljoints were removed with the Air Hammer and a Chisel Bit.
Installed with a 1 7/8 open end wrench.....overall the UCA's were easy.

*Word of Advice - on the LCA stuff

Press the LCA Pivot Bolt out of the LCA.
Remove the Sleeve....bench grinder wire wheel to clean up the Pivot Bolt.
Crush in the LCA bushing and remove as necessary.
Clean up the LCA Bushing hole with scotch brite, or a file.

Press the Pivot Bolt into the NEW Bushing.

Press the Pivot Bolt/LCA Bushing into the LCA.

I just ruined a LCA bushing because I attempted to press the bushing in first and then press in the Pivot Bolt, it pushed the sleeve out the back of the LCA,.... and I had to wait 3 days to get a new one.....learn from me.

The rest was GRAVY. I eyeballed the Alignment at 2am laying on the driveway, in the Dark by a SpotLight, and was only out 1.35* out on the passenger side, and 1.08* out on the driverside....the Caster was nearly dead on, and the Camber was only out Slightly.....it took the Alignment Guy longer to set up the Machine, than it did to make the adjustments.

Good Luck.
 
adriver said:
Get one of these.
If you have one already, I can't imagine why you are having trouble.
12 ton H-Frame Industrial Heavy Duty Floor Shop Press
It will be one of the best 130 dollars you ever spent.

I got mine for 99 dollars but that was years ago.
The Chinese are getting more expensive.
Or maybe it's the Fed. money policy.

I use poly bushings. 100K and no trouble.
Other people don't like them, I know.
Click to expand...

I know this is an old thread, but it contains great information.
Just bought one of the 12 ton harbor freight units. With the 20% off, it cost me $115. This Labor Day, HF has a 25% coupon they have been giving out in the stores. Good time to buy a press or something else that's needed.
Dino2 (1).gif
 
340challconv said:
I know this is an old thread, but it contains great information.
Just bought one of the 12 ton harbor freight units. With the 20% off, it cost me $115. This Labor Day, HF has a 25% coupon they have been giving out in the stores. Good time to buy a press or something else that's needed.
View attachment 1714963502
Click to expand...

Do you know if that coupon is for 25 percent off EVERYTHING?.
I can't imagine it is.
I've got a big ticket item to buy if it is.
But if I know Horror Fright, the coupon is only good for some things.
Thanks.
 
adriver said:
Do you know if that coupon is for 25 percent off EVERYTHING?.
I can't imagine it is.
I've got a big ticket item to buy if it is.
But if I know Horror Fright, the coupon is only good for some things.
Thanks.
Click to expand...
I know there are limitations on what can be bought. This 25% is good on one purchase and only for the Labor Day weekend.
I would go to the store and check out if you can use it. The other option is go on-line and see if they accept the coupon for the purchase you are looking at.

They are trying to increase sales. What are you looking to buy?
I hope the large discount coupon can be used!
Dino2 (1).gif
 
340challconv said:
I know this is an old thread, but it contains great information.
Just bought one of the 12 ton harbor freight units. With the 20% off, it cost me $115. This Labor Day, HF has a 25% coupon they have been giving out in the stores. Good time to buy a press or something else that's needed.
View attachment 1714963502
Click to expand...
Air Hammer and Vise is all you need.
 
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