Steering column clearance to headers
Bob I relied on the transmission mount to locate engine front to rear. I used the 73 up spool type
trans crossmember with the urethane inserts for a firmer or more stable mounting. Mostly for how they help keep the clutch linkage more precise.
As the pictures show rear of block is only about an inch from the firewall. The passenger head is even closer.
I started by blocking the body up stabil using a bubble level to get a solid level reference side to side. I installed the k-frame next that had been cleaned of its engine mounting brackets. Dont forget the 1/2" spacers that go between frame and rails.
I bolted all the engine mounts, frame brackets and transmission to the engine block. Set it in and bolted in the trans mount.
Then I placed the level across the top of the front intake rail to level engine to match the leveled body.
I didn't have a crank height measurement so I used my oil pan that the center link went thru to confirm steering clearance lock to lock.
I also didn't have heads or headers at the time but If I did I would have used them to confirm fit with the torsion bars before tacking brackets onto the frame. I did have to trim my frame brackets a bit to get them to settle in low enough but they were homemade. I'm not sure on how well the parts fit that come in the kit. The driver side horizontal engine mount bolt head needed to be about 5/16" from the k-frame.
This was the closest I had to any interference getting the engine low enough to be at the correct height.
Being that you have your heads and headers and torsion bars you can precisely adjust all the tight spots before doing any tack welding.
Bob I relied on the transmission mount to locate engine front to rear. I used the 73 up spool type
trans crossmember with the urethane inserts for a firmer or more stable mounting. Mostly for how they help keep the clutch linkage more precise.
As the pictures show rear of block is only about an inch from the firewall. The passenger head is even closer.
I started by blocking the body up stabil using a bubble level to get a solid level reference side to side. I installed the k-frame next that had been cleaned of its engine mounting brackets. Dont forget the 1/2" spacers that go between frame and rails.
I bolted all the engine mounts, frame brackets and transmission to the engine block. Set it in and bolted in the trans mount.
Then I placed the level across the top of the front intake rail to level engine to match the leveled body.
I didn't have a crank height measurement so I used my oil pan that the center link went thru to confirm steering clearance lock to lock.
I also didn't have heads or headers at the time but If I did I would have used them to confirm fit with the torsion bars before tacking brackets onto the frame. I did have to trim my frame brackets a bit to get them to settle in low enough but they were homemade. I'm not sure on how well the parts fit that come in the kit. The driver side horizontal engine mount bolt head needed to be about 5/16" from the k-frame.
This was the closest I had to any interference getting the engine low enough to be at the correct height.
Being that you have your heads and headers and torsion bars you can precisely adjust all the tight spots before doing any tack welding.
