Captainkirk's Duster project
As you may have read on another thread here, I'm now agonizing over the next speed bump on the Road to Completion:
Do I want to change the rod bolts?
Sounds like a no-brainer, right? 45 year old bolts on a fresh motor? Don't be ridiculous.....
But wait; there's more!
It appears that the only bolts worth buying, and quite possibly the only ones available, are the ARP bolts.
ARP bolts are different; have a different torque value, use lubricant on the threads, and result in a different amount of crush. Ergo...your round rod end is now egg-shaped. OK, so you replace the bolts at 80 bucks a set and align-hone and recondition the rods, right?
But wait; there's more!
Replacing the bolts and reconditioning the rods ends up costing around $225.00...and I can buy a BRAND NEW set of Eagle forged rods for $270.00 with ARP fasteners installed. No brainer, right?
But wait; there's more!
The new Eagle rods weigh 605g as opposed to the stock rods at 753g...which *might* require the engine to be re-balanced. This would throw another 400+ dollars into the gaping maw formally becoming known as the 'money pit'.
But wait; there's more!
How do I KNOW it would require re-balancing unless I buy them and actually have them checked with the pistons and crank? Again; don't be ridiculous. You DON'T know, you goofball! But if you BUY them, can you return them? Probably not.
Which leads me back to the start with the question; Do I want to replace my rod bolts?
Charlie Brown, you blockhead!
Sigh...
As you may have read on another thread here, I'm now agonizing over the next speed bump on the Road to Completion:
Do I want to change the rod bolts?
Sounds like a no-brainer, right? 45 year old bolts on a fresh motor? Don't be ridiculous.....
But wait; there's more!
It appears that the only bolts worth buying, and quite possibly the only ones available, are the ARP bolts.
ARP bolts are different; have a different torque value, use lubricant on the threads, and result in a different amount of crush. Ergo...your round rod end is now egg-shaped. OK, so you replace the bolts at 80 bucks a set and align-hone and recondition the rods, right?
But wait; there's more!
Replacing the bolts and reconditioning the rods ends up costing around $225.00...and I can buy a BRAND NEW set of Eagle forged rods for $270.00 with ARP fasteners installed. No brainer, right?
But wait; there's more!
The new Eagle rods weigh 605g as opposed to the stock rods at 753g...which *might* require the engine to be re-balanced. This would throw another 400+ dollars into the gaping maw formally becoming known as the 'money pit'.
But wait; there's more!
How do I KNOW it would require re-balancing unless I buy them and actually have them checked with the pistons and crank? Again; don't be ridiculous. You DON'T know, you goofball! But if you BUY them, can you return them? Probably not.
Which leads me back to the start with the question; Do I want to replace my rod bolts?
Charlie Brown, you blockhead!
Sigh...
