68 GT convertible project
Here is the last update. Now you'll be all caught up.
I'm still working on fitting the B&M shifter to the factory console. It looks like I'll be able to use the automatic console top plate after all. It will be a very tight fit but it should work. After taking the console in and out a bunch of times, I got tired of looking at the rusty mess inside the storage compartment. As you can see, the interior filled up with water on more than one occasion.
I found a product called Iron Out under one of my sinks. It worked great for removing rust stains from a toilet so I thought I'd try it on the rust stained fiberglass of the console. It worked really well. Only a couple areas needed to be lightly sanded. Now all it needs is a couple light coats of SEM Landau Black.
I'll need to have the driveshaft shortened for the 8 3/4 upgrade. The original shaft has two tapered ends on it. Since I don't know the exact driveshaft length I need, I didn't want to spend the time cleaning up the original shaft and then not be able to use it. I parted out a 76 Newport about 12 years ago and kept the driveshaft out of it. It's longer then the A-body shaft as well as a larger diameter.(3.5" instead of 3") It only has one tapered end so it should work fine for shortening. Here's what it looked like when I started.
I put the shaft in a 5' piece of PVC pipe and filled it with vinegar. I checked the progress every 12 hours and gave it a light scrubbing with a scouring pad. It was in the bath for 36 hours. Here it is next to the Dart's original shaft.
The metal will start to flash rust right away as you can see. I put the driveshaft back in the PVC but filled it with EvapoRust. The EvapoRust quickly removed the flash rust and does a great job and preventing it from returning immediately. The driveshaft soaked in the EvapoRust for under an hour. Then I rinsed it off, dried it and sprayed it down with WD-40. It should keep like this for quite awhile. Once I get the rear end mocked up, I can take my measurements and have it shortened.
And finally, the other day I was looking for any other fasteners that needed to be cleaned up when I found this heater core tube plate that mounts in the engine compartment. It had seen better days so I made a new one out of some scrap.
Here is the last update. Now you'll be all caught up.
I'm still working on fitting the B&M shifter to the factory console. It looks like I'll be able to use the automatic console top plate after all. It will be a very tight fit but it should work. After taking the console in and out a bunch of times, I got tired of looking at the rusty mess inside the storage compartment. As you can see, the interior filled up with water on more than one occasion.
I found a product called Iron Out under one of my sinks. It worked great for removing rust stains from a toilet so I thought I'd try it on the rust stained fiberglass of the console. It worked really well. Only a couple areas needed to be lightly sanded. Now all it needs is a couple light coats of SEM Landau Black.
I'll need to have the driveshaft shortened for the 8 3/4 upgrade. The original shaft has two tapered ends on it. Since I don't know the exact driveshaft length I need, I didn't want to spend the time cleaning up the original shaft and then not be able to use it. I parted out a 76 Newport about 12 years ago and kept the driveshaft out of it. It's longer then the A-body shaft as well as a larger diameter.(3.5" instead of 3") It only has one tapered end so it should work fine for shortening. Here's what it looked like when I started.
I put the shaft in a 5' piece of PVC pipe and filled it with vinegar. I checked the progress every 12 hours and gave it a light scrubbing with a scouring pad. It was in the bath for 36 hours. Here it is next to the Dart's original shaft.
The metal will start to flash rust right away as you can see. I put the driveshaft back in the PVC but filled it with EvapoRust. The EvapoRust quickly removed the flash rust and does a great job and preventing it from returning immediately. The driveshaft soaked in the EvapoRust for under an hour. Then I rinsed it off, dried it and sprayed it down with WD-40. It should keep like this for quite awhile. Once I get the rear end mocked up, I can take my measurements and have it shortened.
And finally, the other day I was looking for any other fasteners that needed to be cleaned up when I found this heater core tube plate that mounts in the engine compartment. It had seen better days so I made a new one out of some scrap.
