Caltracs question
3:73 rear
Standard 727 (I should know this but don't)
750 Holley mechanical
26 dia MT actually 235/60-15
I did take a peak under the front end today but didn't take any measurements, on the to do list
My car is very close to your setup and I had the same problem. As the tune put out more power, traction issues started. I was using cheap Monroe gas shocks front and rear, Mancini 1981/1982 rear springs (same as MP A body SS springs, stock 340 T bars, front end is all MOOG rubber, welded frame connectors, adjustable snubber 1" from floor pan, MT ET Street Drag radial 27" 255/60/15 19 PSI, 3.91 gear, stock fuel tank, battery in trunk passenger side.
Car would hook, unload and spin, then hook again.
Car is driven 50 miles to the track, tires deflated to 19 PSI, snubber set to 1/4", and cutouts opened.
60' is now a consistent 1.65/1.66 @ 1800 rpm launch, 1.62 @ 2400.
- Cut upper control arm rubber bumpers to 1/2" and left the lower bump stops stock. (I like my front wheels on the track for better control)
- Installed Summit 3 way front drag shocks set to 90/10
- Installed Competition Engineering rear drag shocks set to 50/50
- Modified adjustable snubber to sit 1/4" from floor pan at race height, (driver and fuel level for race). Snubber is a simple pin for up and down settings.
- Both rear spring front sections are clamped and one clamp is used in the rear section.
I'm a budget old school racer with a high 11 low 12 second street/strip car. The 3 way drag shocks worked for my car and are not expensive. Before you spend money on shocks let the suspension hang and measure the max extension you need.