QUESTION FOR UCA BALL JOINT SEPARATION
NEVER NEVER NEVER NEVER EVER heat a ball joint or any steering or suspension component with a torch! There is a nylon bushing in the joint that melts really easy and you WILL RUIN the joint! Also never heat with a torch any components that you plan on reusing because you will anneal the metal and weaken it. I'm sure that the guys who claim that they do it all the time will protest me but I do this for a living and I have taught Steering and Suspension at a Trade school. I have seen it happen many times.
The best way to do it is with a ball joint separating tool that uses screw pressure to pop the joint from the knuckle. A pickle fork works too but you risk damage to the boot. Most of the time guys just take the castle nut loose and then hit the knuckle with a hammer right outside where the tapered shaft of the joint goes through the knuckle. Hit the knuckle not the arm or joint. Just be careful not to hit the threads with the hammer. Put an old castle nut on the threads to protect them. Use a good heavy hammer. 32-48oz ball peen or a mallet. A few good wacks should pop it loose.
I doubt it would rise to the level of protest,lol! Certainly heat will wreck the joint itself if you don't work quickly, and you should avoid it if you have tools to get it done like the
above,(i have the OTC version). BUT, you should also not strike the knuckle to release a tapered stud just the same, if the hole"ovals" at all it can cause the replacement joint
stud to fail! That being said, I've been doing this professionally for over 31yrs., and everybody has done all of the above in the field w/o death and mayhem. Oh, and I have done
many UCA rebuilds on the bench, incl. the B-joint. I kill the bushings first, then slip a heavy wall pipe that fits the arm holes decent thru and clamp it in a good vice. An air gun
w/some balls usually takes them right out, and a little TLC from tommy the torch won't hurt if neccessary, no need to cherry the thing.