New clutch setup won't disengage

yellow rose said

I doubt the disc is stuck to both the pressure plate and the flywheel, which s what would have to happen to get what you say is going on.

With that said, when a car won't go into gear while it's running but will with the engine off, it's from a lack of air gap. The clutch is dragging.


So, get more air gap. Which is easier said than done with your bell housing.

Any reason why you went with a hydraulic clutch? I been around them and I prefer mechanical linkage if I can get it in the car.

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Thanks for the input, guys ;)

Actually the disc does not have to be stuck to both sides to be dragging.

If it's stuck to the flywheel, even with the pressure plate disengaged, the disc will still turn...

And if it's stuck only to the pressure plate, that will also turn the disc since the PP always turns with the flywheel - the clutch cover is bolted to it and the PP ring doesn't freewheel...

Why'd I go with hydraulic? There is so little room between the header downpipes, t-bar, starter and frame that I don't see how I'd ever get a z-bar through there. Also less drag from pivots and bushings, so easier on the leg.
(I have the Lakewood, or course, because I like my right lower leg and foot to stay attached to me in the event of an explosion).

So how far should the fork be moving?