New clutch setup won't disengage

Thanks for the input, guys ;)

Actually the disc does not have to be stuck to both sides to be dragging.

If it's stuck to the flywheel, even with the pressure plate disengaged, the disc will still turn...

And if it's stuck only to the pressure plate, that will also turn the disc since the PP always turns with the flywheel - the clutch cover is bolted to it and the PP ring doesn't freewheel...

Why'd I go with hydraulic? There is so little room between the header downpipes, t-bar, starter and frame that I don't see how I'd ever get a z-bar through there. Also less drag from pivots and bushings, so easier on the leg.
(I have the Lakewood, or course, because I like my right lower leg and foot to stay attached to me in the event of an explosion).

So how far should the fork be moving?


Well, I was clear as mud. Sorry. My point was if the disc is stuck to either the FW or the pressure plate, if the crank is turning but the input is not, the disc would have to be welded to one of them. Once the pedal is pushed down the input stops turning. I would think that alone would separate anything stuck together.

Used to have this issue on dirt bikes. I would roll along at slow speed, pull in the clutch and snap the throttle a couple of times to knock it loose. The same principal could be accomplished with the car at idle...

Naw crap, I'm losing it. You can't do that either.

Hell with it. I'm not being any help. Going to the range to pop off some rounds with my father in law. Maybe I'll get smarter while I'm at the range.