New clutch setup won't disengage

Glad you feel better after shooting, because this pre-shooting post made no sense:
"My point was if the disc is stuck to either the FW or the pressure plate, if the crank is turning but the input is not, the disc would have to be welded to one of them. "

The reason I can't get it into gear is that the input shaft has NOT stopped turning, because either the disc is stuck to the PP or flywheel or both, or there's not enough travel to disengage it fully. No welding required. In fact, for either of those two states, the only way that the crank can be turning and the input shaft not turning would be the input or disc splines being totally stripped out.

Anyhow I'm out of town all week, but when I return I will proceed as written in my initial post, and report my findings.

I'll ask one more time, since I can't easily measure plate departure, does anyone know how far the fork tip must travel to disengage the clutch?? Even on a stock B&B setup the distance is similar (the CF DF is supposed to be a drop-in replacement other than the overcenter spring).
Thanks!