Locking out advance with welds

TrailBeast said
Ah, ok then.
I never personally verified if they aligned closest at idle or full throttle.
I guess I just assumed it was at idle and it got farther away as RPM's rose, or was before the terminal at idle and after at WOT and full advance.
So they align closest at WOT then.
Thanks for answering that.

TrailBeast said
So, just one more thing if I may please.
One could move the weights to full advance, mark the top and bottom shafts then throw all the weights and springs away along with the swaged on slotted piece and weld the two shaft sections down inside the top where the clip is with the marks lined up.
(loosing about 1 lb of pointless rotating mass) AND having a locked out distributor.

And about 5 minutes with a variable speed hand drill, with drill, tap and cutting fluid you could have it adjustable. I have done this for over a decade on more than a dozen electronic advance distributors without a slip or lost screw. You can use loctite, and or second screw on top the other if worried about that.
There are also locked out lean burn distributors, but as Pace said they are troublesome. There is a Mallory trigger wheel rotor, that can be used with optical vane type sensor, for digital output, getting around VR sensing issues of runout, RPM related timing errors, and decoding VR signal. The optical sensors are inexpensive, and automotive temperature rated, or use an expensive Uni-lite trigger. The wheel has 8 slots, for ignition triggers, the radius is much larger, so much more accurate than a reluctor used in Mopar electronic distributor.