I shortened the bezel because I actually cut my standard dash frame for the rallye cluster. If you have a rallye dash frame there will be a mounting hole out on the dash you'll have to cover if you shorten the bezel.
As for the gauges, I didn't do too much to the ones I chose, but I bought a handful of "for parts" gauge clusters and dashes and picked the best ones. They're a lot cheaper if the bezels are broken. After that I just cleaned them up and repainted the needles. I installed a digital IVR so the fuel gauge was modified for that. I also converted an ammeter over to a voltmeter but I haven't installed that one yet. The speedometer I disassembled, cleaned, lubricated and reassembled. The bezel was a lot of work, I sanded it down, installed the repair piece to fix the radio cut out and shorten the bezel, sanded more, primed, sanded more, painted, sanded, painted, polished, touched up all the lettering, etc. I removed and polished all the lenses and reassembled it.
I committed from the beginning to rebuilding everything
myself and I knew I was repairing the bezel so I bought a lot of busted stuff for cheap. In that process I got a bunch of stuff that I couldn't have fixed myself, but also a decent selection of parts I used. I actually sent several bezels back and forth to DMT, the lower overlays weren't being offered so I worked with DMT to get them made and provided several of the bezels for patterns. Not sure if I did better than the $1,200 for a restoration, probably would have saved me some time though. I will probably send off one of my 150 mph speedo's for a rebuild, the one I have bounces a little still.