Example of what "driver" Barracudas are selling for

LovetheA's said
Interesting thread here. This really got me thinking about prices in my neck of the woods out here in the northeast, specifically CT. Obviously there is a premium paid for rust free cars here out east. In my opinion there are a lot of variables when asking what is a driver barracuda worth assuming we're talking 2nd generation 67-69. It isn't an easy question to answer. Examples in my opinion of some variables assuming all nicely presenting drivers nice 3+ cond. fully functioning.
1. 67-69 fastback/notchback 318 or slanty w/auto trans approx 10,000.
2. 67-69 fastback/notchback 340 4 speed car 15,000-18,000.
3. 67-69 same car w/matching #'s. 20,000-24,000.
4. Same as # 3 but conv 28,000-32,000
5. 67-69 fastback/notchback clone 383 4 speed car 23,000-25,000
6. 67-69 same as # 5 but legit w/matching numbers 30,000-33,000.
7. 67-69 383 4 speed conv w/matching numbers 38,000-42,000.
I'd like to know based on the present mkt for a bodies what does everyone think? Am I realistic or way off? I realize that 68 or 69 very often brings slightly more than 67. Also color choices make a difference.

Carl

lovetheA's....

i think you are well within the range of prices i've seen in the last year for the noted A body cars. the only caveate i would offer is that the higher you go in price, the more uncertain are the prices/estimates. for example, a very nice black on black 69 M-Code Barracuda sold at Auctions America (i believe) about 8 months ago for $45k. i've NEVER seen any non-hemi (BO car) sell for more than $35k OTHER than a M-Code Cuda. the other thing that factors in is that right now, if you go to a Mecum auction with $40k in your pocket, you can buy pretty much ANY muscle car from 64-71 ALREADY restored and ready to drive. for non-mopar fanatics out there that just want to own "a muscle car", they can be pretty happy spending $35k on a 396 chevelle or a 351 mach 1 mustang or a 69 RS camaro ANY corvette you want between 1973 and 1989 - GTO's - LOTS of cars.

the other "wild card" in trying to price mopars right now is the region of the country you're looking at. cars from the west coast and "desert states" tend to be higher in price because of the lack of rust. the best deals are on "rusty cars" from the east and down south. the best buying tactic i've found is to start with states that have a high unemployment rate or are generally poorer areas with fewer jobs. it is not uncommon to find a "back yard" or "barn find" in these areas owned by someone who really needs some money.

as to the idea that the value of A body cars is going to go up in the future - I WOULD NOT COUNT ON THAT... there really are only two groups of people buying "muscle cars" - "investors" who think a particular car is going to increase in value over time and retired or semi-retired "nostalgic" buyers who are buying the car they had (or wanted) when they were younger. "young" people (30 or less) have little interest in cars in general and NO interest in "environment killing gas hogs from the 1960's." yes, you can find exceptions to these examples but in general, based upon current social and demographic trends in the U.S., my examples are pretty accurate. so by all means, buy the mopar (or other car) you have always wanted. just don't buy that car thinking you're going to sell it in ten years to pay for your kids' college.