Power to Manual conversion questions

Many thanks to all for the very useful answers and info.

Parts availability in the UK is almost non-existent. I have to get everything shipped, that's why I need to make doubly sure I order all the bits and that they are right. I have quotes for remanufacturing of my booster, but even then temporary manual conversion is necessary as I don't have the option to be without brakes while waiting.

I did consider one of the many aftermarket booster+master cylinder kits sold for power brake conversions, but they claim to bolt on directly if you had factory manual brakes but that a firewall modification is required if you had factory power brakes. It seems that they are just not specific enough with regard to models and factory power brakes set-ups.

These illustrations are taken from a 1967 shop manual and show two very different factory power brake assemblies.

If the booster canister is bolted directly onto the firewall, then a plate is used and there are firewall differences between manual and power brakes.
Power%20Brake%20Assembly%202%20small.jpg

If the booster canister comes with a bracket assembly, then no plate is used and there is no firewall difference between power and manual.
Power%20Brake%20Assembly%201%20small.jpg

Finally, regarding the Master Cylinder bore size: a smaller bore mean less pedal effort but longer pedal travel, so it comes down to driver preference. My factory MC is 1" and can be used in a manual set up, but I can also try a smaller bore if I want.

Many thanks again for the replies!