broken exhaust stud removal
DOESN`T SOUND LIKE THE ENGINES WERE IN VEHICLES. I `VE GOT A NEPHEW THAT HAS ONE IN A 4.7 DAKOTA THAT IS BROKE OFF IN #7, UNDER THE POWER BRAKE RES., WAS THINKING ABOUT PULLING THE LEFT FRONT WHEEL AND INNER FENDER PANEL OUT TO TRY TO GET TO IT, ANY THOTS ? excuse the caps!
Pretty much covered it all in posts #12 & 15, and the above examples WERE in the vehicle, accessibility is usually the biggest hurdle. I have reversible 90deg. drills,lefthand bits,
and other things to help overcome some of those challenges, but disassembly and jacking/tilting engines is a must sometimes(I bill accordingly). If it is bad enough, it can be
better to pull the part off,time/wise & success/wise. 1969383S reinforced it, start slow & get the best access to the offending unit, the first drill thru is the most important one.
Get
quality bits that cut& hold an edge, the last 3rd gen HEMI I had to do mannys on took a toll on my good bits, God help you if you're using junk! If you've got more than a
couple to fix, best get a bit sharpener or know how to use the bench grinder w/a fine wheel to keep 'em sharp.
In the case of using heat, I make & place heat shields to protect things if needed, some things just have to come off or get moved. Trial run putting the torch & yourself in
position and practice "pulling out" quickly once or twice and have a spray bottle w/H2O ready, just in case............trust me............
Once I'm ready to drill, it's sometimes helpful to screw a stud/long bolt into another hole near Your line of sight, use it to keep the bit squared up in that plane.