More disc brake questions
Sorry, but no, that's incorrect. B & E bodies absolutely had a linkage system. It was different from what the A's used, but it was not a straight through set up, even on the small block cars. This is the booster and linkage from my '72 Challenger. The linkage was on the cabin side of the firewall, but the booster did mount higher than the manual m/c. If you look at the gasket, you can see the opening for where the manual m/c would be, below the booster input. The reinforcing plates were different for power and manual brake B/E cars but the gaskets used were the same. You can even see the bumps in the gasket for the other set of holes in the firewall where the manual master cylinder would mount (above and below the lower studs).
Regardless, it doesn't matter, you're going to be running manual brakes. I ran the exact same set up on my Duster for awhile with the exception of using 11" rear drums (same bore diameter wheel cylinders though, so, same pedal effort). IMO the 15/16" is a better choice for the master cylinder bore. The 1-1/32" will absolutely work, but it's not what I would choose even for $12. You'll have a higher pedal with a shorter throw than what I had in my Duster when I was running the same calipers and rotors as you're going to run. You don't need to compare different body style cars because there are people here that have run the same brake set up with 15/16" or 1" m/c's (ir3333), and both of us recommend 15/16" or 1". That doesn't sound like much of a difference, but if ir3333's math is right the 1-1/32" master cylinder will take 6% more effort than a 1" m/c and 18% more than a 15/16". Your car, your choice. Just trying to put the info out there.
Sorry, but no, that's incorrect. B & E bodies absolutely had a linkage system. It was different from what the A's used, but it was not a straight through set up, even on the small block cars. This is the booster and linkage from my '72 Challenger. The linkage was on the cabin side of the firewall, but the booster did mount higher than the manual m/c. If you look at the gasket, you can see the opening for where the manual m/c would be, below the booster input. The reinforcing plates were different for power and manual brake B/E cars but the gaskets used were the same. You can even see the bumps in the gasket for the other set of holes in the firewall where the manual master cylinder would mount (above and below the lower studs).
Regardless, it doesn't matter, you're going to be running manual brakes. I ran the exact same set up on my Duster for awhile with the exception of using 11" rear drums (same bore diameter wheel cylinders though, so, same pedal effort). IMO the 15/16" is a better choice for the master cylinder bore. The 1-1/32" will absolutely work, but it's not what I would choose even for $12. You'll have a higher pedal with a shorter throw than what I had in my Duster when I was running the same calipers and rotors as you're going to run. You don't need to compare different body style cars because there are people here that have run the same brake set up with 15/16" or 1" m/c's (ir3333), and both of us recommend 15/16" or 1". That doesn't sound like much of a difference, but if ir3333's math is right the 1-1/32" master cylinder will take 6% more effort than a 1" m/c and 18% more than a 15/16". Your car, your choice. Just trying to put the info out there.