Hotchkis TVS - 1967-1972 Kit - Thoughts/Experience?

A couple more tidbits from someone who has done many, many suspension systems...

1. My experience along with a few others have had the issues with springs too low on Darts. My guess is the lighter 108" wheelbase cars are what they were really designed for. I sell a 6 leaf 130lb spring that sits great and is US made.
2. I make my own delrin lower control arm bushings, unique to anything else on the market.
3. I like Hotchkiss sway bars, but the front requires welding of the factory style tabs. Not everyone wants to do this.
4. I also like Hellwig bars. The bracketry is a little lighter duty than Hotchkiss and less expensive. The hammertone finish is ok for some people but its there to hide roughness in the metal. The front tubular bar fits oe tabbed lower arms. High offset rims will contact the bar only at full lock.
5. I prefer QA1 upper arms for several reasons, along with firm feel torsion bars.
6. For steering, my Borgeson setup is much more modern and lighter than oe boxes. More expensive but worth it.
7. Feel free to call me at the shop or visit Bergmanautocraft.com

All good points!

Like Peter I don't like heim joints on UCA's for the street, which I mentioned in my post above. Bushings are a better choice for a street car, I'd only use heims at the UCA's for a track car myself after running them on my Challenger on the street. I have a set of Peter's SPC double adjustable arms with delrin bushings, very nice pieces. Probably overkill for a street car, the QA1's or some of the other bushed, non-adjustable tubular arms are fine for that.

The Hellwig bar you want for the 67-72 K frame is #55917. It's been modified for better tire clearance. I updated my post above to include that part number and price (ouch!). I listed the #55905 originally, which is what I run, but it's for the 73+ style K member. No clearance issues at all with that one, I run 275/35/18's up front and have never had any issues with sway bar interference with it.