My 1966 dart race car.
Been awhile since I have posted anything been really busy with life kids and racing is still part of my life but have never gotten around to posting. So I had a little block issue small cracks bottom of bore leaking water. Took it apart and all looks like I caught it before total destruction. Crank had hot spotted from the rods that were super heated from steam. No bearings spun but they were about to. So needless to say found a new block, block filled it, and it was already 0.030" over but will clean up at 0.040". Sonic checked at 0.190" at the smallest point on a non thrust side so that is good. So this next engine is going to be stuff that has been left around. Since I work for crower we have some really good stuff laying around. So needed new rods and stuff that was custom made, payed for but never picked up happens alot at Crower. These rods were made ten years ago but the person never came to pick them up. So I got them but they are for a BBC 6.138" 927 pin and made for a two inch rod journal. That's not a misprint 6.138" this may be why they were never picked up since they were made for an NHRA customer who wrote the work ticket wrong when it was faxed in. Faxed yes in yes remember 10 years ago. Ok not a big deal crank needed to be turned so we turned down to the rod journals to 2". Well if we are going to do that might as well offset grind it to gain a little more stroke. 4.120 stroke to be exact. Here we have it 4.040" bore and 4.120" stroke and here we have a 422.5 or a 423 cube small block. Next thing pistons and they will have to be custom made not a big deal CP-Carrillo is good friends of Crower and got those for a mega deal going to end up at 12.75-1 compression. There it is the new, used, left over, used up next engine.
PS Just so I dont get this.........I block filled one side at a time with both heads and main caps bolted down for one week then the other side for one week then left it alone bolted together for a month before this pic was taken, grease is for the threads to keep free of crap while harding. The factory drain plugs at the bottom of block are still usable because I used a rubber hose stretched out while block fill hardened. It is filled 0.500" below the water pump and plenty of room around head bolt bosses as not to create a steam pocket.
Been awhile since I have posted anything been really busy with life kids and racing is still part of my life but have never gotten around to posting. So I had a little block issue small cracks bottom of bore leaking water. Took it apart and all looks like I caught it before total destruction. Crank had hot spotted from the rods that were super heated from steam. No bearings spun but they were about to. So needless to say found a new block, block filled it, and it was already 0.030" over but will clean up at 0.040". Sonic checked at 0.190" at the smallest point on a non thrust side so that is good. So this next engine is going to be stuff that has been left around. Since I work for crower we have some really good stuff laying around. So needed new rods and stuff that was custom made, payed for but never picked up happens alot at Crower. These rods were made ten years ago but the person never came to pick them up. So I got them but they are for a BBC 6.138" 927 pin and made for a two inch rod journal. That's not a misprint 6.138" this may be why they were never picked up since they were made for an NHRA customer who wrote the work ticket wrong when it was faxed in. Faxed yes in yes remember 10 years ago. Ok not a big deal crank needed to be turned so we turned down to the rod journals to 2". Well if we are going to do that might as well offset grind it to gain a little more stroke. 4.120 stroke to be exact. Here we have it 4.040" bore and 4.120" stroke and here we have a 422.5 or a 423 cube small block. Next thing pistons and they will have to be custom made not a big deal CP-Carrillo is good friends of Crower and got those for a mega deal going to end up at 12.75-1 compression. There it is the new, used, left over, used up next engine.
PS Just so I dont get this.........I block filled one side at a time with both heads and main caps bolted down for one week then the other side for one week then left it alone bolted together for a month before this pic was taken, grease is for the threads to keep free of crap while harding. The factory drain plugs at the bottom of block are still usable because I used a rubber hose stretched out while block fill hardened. It is filled 0.500" below the water pump and plenty of room around head bolt bosses as not to create a steam pocket.