Aftermarket Barracuda Dash Bezel - Reviews???

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MrJLR

Built, not bought
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Has anyone here used one of these from Classic Industries?
Part #MA566

Link

Wondering about quality, fit, and what is included....overall opinion

Thanks

Jeff
 
Has anyone here used one of these from Classic Industries?
Part #MA566

Link

Wondering about quality, fit, and what is included....overall opinion

Thanks

Jeff
They are PG Classic if you didn't already know.
If I were trying to stay stock I would give these guys a call and have them restore my original bezel. :thumbsup:
A-body Rallye Instrument Panel Restoration Service Dash
They have the best reproduction graphics too. just my 2¢
 
They are PG Classic if you didn't already know.
If I were trying to stay stock I would give these guys a call and have them restore my original bezel. :thumbsup:
A-body Rallye Instrument Panel Restoration Service Dash
They have the best reproduction graphics too. just my 2¢


They are all from PG. If your original is cut up and you can not afford to source an original and have it redone they are ok. You may find that a little tweaking is in order were the upper mount plate fastens.
 
So I could just send them my whole assembly and they'd make it like new again?
Jeff


Best to have the web page open and call David on the phone. Small family business.
Short hours are like 10:00-1:00 I think.
David Patik
Owner/Operator
850-878-1450
Performance Car Graphics

If your 67 has the Burl Wood Grain, they do not offer it. They only have the straight Grain Walnut.


Directly from their web page:

Complete Service
1967-1971 A-body Rallye
(Dodge Dart, Demon and Plymouth Duster, 1967-1969 Barracuda/Cuda)

 Standard in all 1967-1969 Barracudas, optional in 1970-71 Dart and 1971 Demon. Many versions of this large, complicated instrument cluster were made. Basic differences:
● Round 120 mph or 150 mph speedometer; round gauge pods
● 1967 speedometer lettering is unique
● Optional trip odometer
● Optional clock, or tachometer, or vacuum gauge
● More than one type of tachometer lettering exists
● Some instrument bezels have a cigarette lighter hole
● 1967 used rotary knob radio; so did 1971
● 1968-70 had thumbwheel radio
● 1967-69 had 4-way flasher switch in upper left of bezel
● 1967-March 1968 had small slot for fan switch, without lettering
● Bezels without woodgrain in 1967-69 had black-painted upper and silver-painted lower
● 1967 had optional burled walnut with raised aluminum rim directly over the chrome upper bezel, with silver-painted lower bezel
● 1968 had optional same wood, but upper bezel was painted black first
● Mid-1968 through 1971 had “straight grain” walnut over black-painted upper and lower
● Woodgrain was standard in 1970-71
● “Barracuda” script on 1967-69 glove box bezel; no lettering on 1970-71 glove box bezel
Instrument Cluster Restoration: $395.00
● Completely disassemble, clean all parts, acid-dip circuit boards, strip faces to bare metal, then reface speedometer and small gauges with original-color black faces, or custom white faces. (These gauges do not always need refacing.)
● Paint indicator needles
● Calibrate speedometer and small gauges
 ● Speedometer head is usually worn badly; rebuild is available
 ● Fuel gauge is usually burned out; used gauge is available
Odometer Reletter: $30.00 to $50.00
Tachometer Rebuild: Inquire

● Balance needle
● Clean and adjust movement
● Calibrate rpm from 1000-4500
● Replace circuit board, if needed, or desired
● Modern-day circuit board allows correct tachometer operation with MSD Ignition System (Multiple Spark Discharge)
Tachometer Reface: $55.00
● Strip face to bare metal; reface with correct redline
Clock Quartz Movement: $85.00
Clock Reface & Vacuum Gauge Reface: $35.00

● Clock cable repair is available
Instrument Plastic Bezel Restoration: $495.00-and-up
● Cracks, breaks, cut-out radio areas repair is available
● Strip and rechrome entire bezel
● Paint silver or black areas
● Install new woodgrain, if used (straight-grain walnut only)
● Polish lenses
● Rebuild switches
● Reletter switch names
● Paint correctly the four rear-of-bezel light blackout areas
● Rechrome and detail gauge center caps
Glove Box Bezel Restoration: $85.00
● Rechrome bezel, and paint silver or black inset
● Rechrome “Barracuda” nameplate: $35.00 extra

A-body_Rallye.jpg
 
Best to have the web page open and call David on the phone. Small family business.
Short hours are like 10:00-1:00 I think.
David Patik
Owner/Operator
850-878-1450
Performance Car Graphics

If your 67 has the Burl Wood Grain, they do not offer it. They only have the straight Grain Walnut.


Directly from their web page:

Complete Service
1967-1971 A-body Rallye
(Dodge Dart, Demon and Plymouth Duster, 1967-1969 Barracuda/Cuda)

 Standard in all 1967-1969 Barracudas, optional in 1970-71 Dart and 1971 Demon. Many versions of this large, complicated instrument cluster were made. Basic differences:
● Round 120 mph or 150 mph speedometer; round gauge pods
● 1967 speedometer lettering is unique
● Optional trip odometer
● Optional clock, or tachometer, or vacuum gauge
● More than one type of tachometer lettering exists
● Some instrument bezels have a cigarette lighter hole
● 1967 used rotary knob radio; so did 1971
● 1968-70 had thumbwheel radio
● 1967-69 had 4-way flasher switch in upper left of bezel
● 1967-March 1968 had small slot for fan switch, without lettering
● Bezels without woodgrain in 1967-69 had black-painted upper and silver-painted lower
● 1967 had optional burled walnut with raised aluminum rim directly over the chrome upper bezel, with silver-painted lower bezel
● 1968 had optional same wood, but upper bezel was painted black first
● Mid-1968 through 1971 had “straight grain” walnut over black-painted upper and lower
● Woodgrain was standard in 1970-71
● “Barracuda” script on 1967-69 glove box bezel; no lettering on 1970-71 glove box bezel
Instrument Cluster Restoration: $395.00
● Completely disassemble, clean all parts, acid-dip circuit boards, strip faces to bare metal, then reface speedometer and small gauges with original-color black faces, or custom white faces. (These gauges do not always need refacing.)
● Paint indicator needles
● Calibrate speedometer and small gauges
 ● Speedometer head is usually worn badly; rebuild is available
 ● Fuel gauge is usually burned out; used gauge is available
Odometer Reletter: $30.00 to $50.00
Tachometer Rebuild: Inquire

● Balance needle
● Clean and adjust movement
● Calibrate rpm from 1000-4500
● Replace circuit board, if needed, or desired
● Modern-day circuit board allows correct tachometer operation with MSD Ignition System (Multiple Spark Discharge)
Tachometer Reface: $55.00
● Strip face to bare metal; reface with correct redline
Clock Quartz Movement: $85.00
Clock Reface & Vacuum Gauge Reface: $35.00

● Clock cable repair is available
Instrument Plastic Bezel Restoration: $495.00-and-up
● Cracks, breaks, cut-out radio areas repair is available
● Strip and rechrome entire bezel
● Paint silver or black areas
● Install new woodgrain, if used (straight-grain walnut only)
● Polish lenses
● Rebuild switches
● Reletter switch names
● Paint correctly the four rear-of-bezel light blackout areas
● Rechrome and detail gauge center caps
Glove Box Bezel Restoration: $85.00
● Rechrome bezel, and paint silver or black inset
● Rechrome “Barracuda” nameplate: $35.00 extra

View attachment 1715021075
looks great, but for that $, I`ll have to stay w/ my cobbled up mess!
 
looks great, but for that $, I`ll have to stay w/ my cobbled up mess!

I have future plans to repaint and do the interior.
To me, the interior is such a huge part of my driving experience. ....including comfortable seats. I like long drives. I did the interior of my Stingray and it was like new...better than new. I am willing to find the money.

Jeff
 
I bought one of those from a member after he abandoned his resto. Look and finish is very nice. The only issue I had with it is the ac button holes were slightly small so required a little trimming to get them to fit in properly
 
I bought one of those from a member after he abandoned his resto. Look and finish is very nice. The only issue I had with it is the ac button holes were slightly small so required a little trimming to get them to fit in properly
What did you trim them with?

Jeff
 
Yes. The only trimming was inside each of the pushbutton holes so once done you could not tell. If you do not have ac then it may be a non issue since the controller is different.
 
Yes. The only trimming was inside each of the pushbutton holes so once done you could not tell. If you do not have ac then it may be a non issue since the controller is different.
Awesome. ....thank you!

Jeff
 
I decided to go all aftermarket with this bezel from ClassicDash
1967-69 Plymouth Barracuda, 1970-71 A-Body Rallye Dash Panel - Classic Dash

Will be all Speedhut Gauges.
Will have make the piece for the glove box and then refinish the whole thing to match since classic dash does not make one.:wtf:
The faux CF looks really fake. Going to experiment with some different finishes.
May go Hydro-Dip if it can be... Not sure with all the compound angles?

RAIF_fpSllanNN0OA-OdmTEOkFos575M5I1WZ_S6aSRq5-CzUG2QF_whMKaKKBDVkv-f31M8NK38G4XT2A=w1369-h770-no.jpg
 
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I used the PG classic dash. It fit OK. Needed a little tweaking here and there to work ok. I am happy with it though. I will say this, the PG classic dash chrome is done like the chrome on a pickup truck grille with copper and chrome plating. It wont haze up, scratch up, or come off like the stockers chrome. If you get your originals "rechromed" it may be done with vacuum metalizing. This is the same as the OEM used 50 years ago and will fade and spot with time. Heaven forbid you get windex on it, that will permanently spot the **** out of it
 
I decided to go all aftermarket with this bezel from ClassicDash
1967-69 Plymouth Barracuda, 1970-71 A-Body Rallye Dash Panel - Classic Dash

Will be all Speedhut Gauges.
Will have make the piece for the glove box and then refinish the whole thing to match since classic dash does not make one.:wtf:
The faux CF looks really fake. Going to experiment with some different finishes.
May go Hydro-Dip if it can be... Not sure with all the compound angles?

View attachment 1715021186
How in the world are you going to mount your heater controls in that ? That are normally bolted to the metal gage housing on a rallye dash.
 
I decided to go all aftermarket with this bezel from ClassicDash
1967-69 Plymouth Barracuda, 1970-71 A-Body Rallye Dash Panel - Classic Dash

Will be all Speedhut Gauges.
Will have make the piece for the glove box and then refinish the whole thing to match since classic dash does not make one.:wtf:
The faux CF looks really fake. Going to experiment with some different finishes.
May go Hydro-Dip if it can be... Not sure with all the compound angles?

View attachment 1715021186
I think they do offer a matching glove box door bezel but without the Barracuda script and fish. Did you notice a footnote at that webpage stating "You will need to relate the wiper switch" ? They put the hole for it where the factory hole is/was before they realized the gauge gets into the space required.
I guess the factory headlight switch does fit. It will be mighty close. Maybe they suggest a different headlight switch?
I contacted them offering my D.I.N. compatible rally panel design, support plate for stereo head unit and any 67 through 71 climate controller, the works. They never replied.
Good luck with it.

DeMonDIN plus burl 02 resize.jpg
 
How did you move the heater controls into the radio spot so cleanly like that. Looks like the factory did it. They should have done it that way from the get go.
 
The PG ones arent plug n play by a long shot, but if you take your time and adjust and modify your pieces as needed (although you shouldent need to with a $500 part) but its better than nothing, and the chrome is 100% improvement over the vacuum metalizing procesd
 
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They are all from PG. If your original is cut up and you can not afford to source an original and have it redone they are ok. You may find that a little tweaking is in order were the upper mount plate fastens.
Where the metal plate is supposed to slip in under the upper front edge of the bezel to hold the cluster bezel up in place at the top, there is no slot in the plastc bezel for the metal plate. I used a cutoff wheel in an air operated angle die grinder to carefully cut a slot in mine down its length on the back side for the metal plate to fit and hold it up. The metal gage bucket doesnt mate up very well with the aftermarket bezel at the top either. There is a slight gap. I used aluminum tape to cover the gap to keep dirt from getting inside over time. From the front installed it is not noticable at all gages fit correctly.
 
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