273 302 318 340 build

4spdragtop said
Ok so had dad looking over my shoulder today and had success.
Got cam out the front. Bearing wasnt spun. Just didnt hold my tongue right when pulling it out.
Came out fine looks ok? Some.varnish spots. All bearing oil holes lined up.
Next onto rounded head bolt...of.course it was the middle lower one that is "shrouded" fer frig sakes.
Able to take a grinder to it and hammer a 11/16 wrench onto it and get it out. 2 for 2!!
Heads are 4027163 casting big valve heads.
I will dismantle valves/springs.
Maybe reuse the springs?

Then flipped her onto her belly and took her pan off.
Pan looks brand new, Bonus!
Nothing stands out as being an issue with bottom end.
Im at the.point on the 318 where I dont want to dismantle anymore. Not saying I wont but if I remove pistons or crank them I may as well put new bearings in. Agree/disagree? ? If I do its more $$
So now is clean/inspect and start a list. And do some research lol

I dont think you can enlarge the 302's for larger valves 1.88 and 1.60 cam you? Machinist said not enough meat there? Correct me if we can.
BUT here is the kicker with machining....
$230 to recut/reface valve seats.
$10/hole for valve guides
$65/head to resurface head-block surface.
It can add up quick even if.they come back crack free.
Thanks again guys, bit of a hectic day and not a lot of time to read/comprehend todays replies lol.
Good day tho going 2-2!

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Get a 3" and 4" wire wheel and put it on your drill and clean up the cylinders, piston tops, and head faces and combustion chambers...

If you loosen the rod caps, I would recommend replacing the studs and having them reconditioned for the new studs... If you keep tightening and loosening them, they will get too much stretch...

If you change the bearings, you will have to put two more clamp cycles on them to do it right... One to plastic gauge, and another to final assembly...

If this is a virgin engine and never been apart, you may be able to do it without replacing the rod bolts...

You should only tighten a rod bolt 5 times, then replace them to make sure they don't get too much stretch and will fail/break....

However, a good ring and bearing refresh would do that motor well, and you can get an affordable engine kit for that from Mancini Racing:

Sealed Power Engine Kit - 318

If you're this far into it, go that extra step to make it that much better...

And if you don't have a good double roller timing chain, I would recommend this one, I've used them for years and they will go over 100,000 miles with very minimal stretch....

Edelbrock