70aarcuda said

Mopar have marking on the big end of the rod...they should be numbered 1 thru 8......keep the rod and cop caps together...which should be easy since they are numbered

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Cudafever said

No picture but if you look at your picture, you can see where the valve smashed down on the piston, but there was no mark in the actual valve pocket. that shelf keeps the deeper valve pocket form being used. they are hitting the 90 degree shelf first.
If you grind of that shelf so it is the same angle as the valve pocket, you just gained, (as i keep saying:D) a boatload more clearance. we are talking about thousands of an inch here and that 90 degree shelf has.......I don't know .020 to get it to the stock valve relief????

Latter i will look up my old valve to piston clearance and share them with you, to show the difference it made.
Have to find my notes first.
Earlier i said to us a cut of wheel to do the job. Have changed my mind. us a die grinder and a alu bit or a sand paper roll on a die grinder. make sure you clean up any sharp edges. you could even replace the die grinder for a drill for that matter.

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joec said

While it is good practice to keep the pushrods/rockers in order if not no big deal.Have the machine shop check the balance while its there.The valve pockets can be laid back without machining the tops,hell its only the intake pockets you can probably do that with a dremel.You already have witness marks.While checking the valves for straightness before you pull the heads apart fill the champers with alcahol or dry gas to see if they leak if not and free in the guide get some lapping compound and check the seats as 318 will run showed in his 318 build.You have to buy a cam and lifters anyway so have the machine shop check valve spring for enough pressure for the cam.If the bores arent bad you could probably give it a quick hone and your ok.

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