How do you use the C-3053 burnishing tool?

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Jadaharabi

Jadaharabi

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Does anybody have the instructions on how these things work? The books say to use them to size the intermediate shaft bushing but never shows or tells how it is done.
 
The simplest thing to do is buy a non Chrysler bushing. They are already sized so that when they are installed, no sizing is necessary.
 
I haven't seen the tool, but burnishing a bushing usually requires the tool to be drawn through the ID of the bushing with the bushing in place. It deforms the bushing into the bore. It sizes the ID as well as fits the OD to the bore. Thin walled bronze valve guides are fitted and sized this way.
 
Assemble the nut on the shaft and the collar that fits in the distributor hole. Align the shaft with the collar in the distributor hole and the intermediate bushing in it's hole and pound the bushing into it's hole with a hammer on the end of the shaft. Then draw the shaft out of the bushing with the nut on the shaft.
 
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Maybe Google burnishing? Typical twist drills, taper reamers run clockwise and remove material. Burnish tool pushes/smears/lays material rather than remove. Direction of rotation rarely makes a difference in result/finish.
I ran some parts once that had to be burnished counterclockwise, 1 pass, with compound. Commercial aircraft people are very picky.
 
I have an intermediate shaft that I filed a sharp angled groove into....I press the bushing with a hammer and 1/2 extension, then apply some grease and run the grooved shaft through the bushing ,turning it in like tightening a bolt. Drop the new shaft in and done.
 
that might "work" but the oem bushing is designed and sized to be burnished, not reamed, and def not reamed with no guide.
 
JoeSBP said:
that might "work" but the oem bushing is designed and sized to be burnished, not reamed, and def not reamed with no guide.
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I would agree but that isn't strong enough. I heartily agree.
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
I have an intermediate shaft that I filed a sharp angled groove into....I press the bushing with a hammer and 1/2 extension, then apply some grease and run the grooved shaft through the bushing ,turning it in like tightening a bolt. Drop the new shaft in and done.
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making a cutter, did it this way myself.
 
Daves69 said:
About halfway down the page.....................
Fix Your Dodge With Your Own Hands
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2013-03-05_050512_bushing_installation.gif


2013-03-05_050554_burnish_bushing.gif


Thanks
 
The "burnishing" tool draws a mandrel through the bushing, sizing it's inner diameter. It does not remove metal, but expands the entire bushing slightly. This has the benefit of expanding the outer diameter or "swedging" the bushing tightly into place in the block. Quick, easy, production line friendly one-pass operation. If you don't have access to the appropriate tool, some Loctite shaft locker and a reamer will get the job done.
 
I'm researching this process myself for I'm going to change mine out I'm looking into replacing it. I may be wrong but by definition I think that tool is misnamed. Burnishing is fitting by polishing. That seems more like a swage to me? You beat it with a hammer to form the size. That's swaging it. Couldn't you do the same thing with an old intermediate shaft?
 
Yes. We bought one from Mancini and it was a tight fit in the block and the shaft fit snugly and turn with just slight resistance. We worked the shaft up and down some and it all freed up fine. So I doubt that we did anything to burnish/swage it. Holding fine for 2+ years.
 
Daves69 said:
I thought if the tool just is being pulled or pushed through to displace (not cut) metal it's referred to as "sizing". If it's spinning through it's "burnishing"?
Come on tool makers, what's the story on it??
……….
MOPAR used distributor bushing sizing tool Miller C-3053 Dodge Plymouth Chrysler | eBay
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Again, a cutting tool that removes material will tear the material. High and low, mountain range like surface that only a microscope could see. Burnish that surface is much like running the cutting tool backward. It lays the surface to a much more consistant plane. Because this is a soft material and press fit into a bore, the insde diameter closes up a bit. Burnishng brings all bushings to same size I.D. and finish regardless how much variance is in the block bores or in the bushings O.D.
 
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The tool is used to drive it in. It is a slight press fit. Then the tool is drawn back through to expand it and finish the ID to size. The area of the shaft that's in the bushing while driving it is a few thou small to let it compress some. On the end of the shaft are 2 cutter/expansion rings which are slightly larger. They correctly size the ID as they are pulled through the bushing. I've never had it pull the bushing back out while doing it. Works like a charm
IMG_2995[1].JPG
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