273 302 318 340 build

My thinking was to go with earlier crank for the build. No particular reason than its forged. As mentioned I haven't disassembled 70 short block so not sure of condition( all journals and bearings). That's the beach of only having one engine stand lol) I did have 3 and sold 2 dammit.
I agree with dropping 83 crank and rods in the 70 block. Reason for buying the 70 block was for the forged crank.
It may be worth the $100 to buy another engine stand lol. I did stop today and buy a 2x12 to make an engine cradle to roll around.
Quick check on Summit site only shows the top dollar Icons or KB with floaters. $800/set lol.
Yep Im pulling for Sens too and Nashville in the other series. Pittsburgh were doing a buttload of whining/bitching last night.
I remember reading in another thread a member said an engine build is a "slippery slope"...I get that now lol
Thanks again!

nm9stheham said

Let me understand something.... so you are going with the '70 crank? I assumed you were going with the '83 crank. The later rods should be the heavier ones and should be balanced with with the '83 crank. So why not go with the '83 crank in the '70 block? It should drop right in. Crank register should be the same and all else.....

Did you want to go with the forged '70 crank for a particular reason? Balancing the later rods with the earlier crank (that was originally balanced for the early lighter rods) would require adding weight to the crank and so the price he quotes is not all that surprising. The cheapest route is to go with the later cast crank and rods.

The pins will all interchange, but yes, your issue with the smaller rods is that the bushings in those rods need locks in the pistons as he said.

BTW, I am pulling for the Seantors......

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