Replacing my restored Duster rally dash bezel, Now car won't start
The light switch does NOT need grounded except to operate the dome lights "when twisted" far to the left
Did I misunderstand? The headlights don't work either? If not, concentrate on that, as that is a "more direct" problem, and might solve the entire issue.
1...Check for power at the big ammeter terminals both of them. Again be careful not to short these
2....If you have power there, turn the fuse box to access the rear and look for the two big buss bars. One will be hot no matter the key position, the other will only be hot with key in ACC or RUN
If you have that, look up the correct pin/ color on the light switch and see if the switch is getting power
You can look up both aftermarket diagrams and factory service manuals for free from MyMopar. Some of them there are the result of efforts by the guys on here
Below is your light switch. Terminal B is hot feed to the headlights from the ammeter circuit, B2 comes from the tail fuse to feed tail, park, and instrument
The light switch does NOT need grounded except to operate the dome lights "when twisted" far to the left
Did I misunderstand? The headlights don't work either? If not, concentrate on that, as that is a "more direct" problem, and might solve the entire issue.
1...Check for power at the big ammeter terminals both of them. Again be careful not to short these
2....If you have power there, turn the fuse box to access the rear and look for the two big buss bars. One will be hot no matter the key position, the other will only be hot with key in ACC or RUN
If you have that, look up the correct pin/ color on the light switch and see if the switch is getting power
You can look up both aftermarket diagrams and factory service manuals for free from MyMopar. Some of them there are the result of efforts by the guys on here
Below is your light switch. Terminal B is hot feed to the headlights from the ammeter circuit, B2 comes from the tail fuse to feed tail, park, and instrument