74 Duster 4 speed adjustments
Hi everyone, I know I haven't posted in a while; but I'm definitely in need of some help. So here goes. Bought a 74 Duster 360 4 speed car. Had a diaphragm cheapo clutch in it. What I've read says to remove the over-center spring and all should be well. Previous owner didn't do that, instead putting a metal bracket type stop on the pedal arm to limit travel and then bypassing clutch safety switch. Well of course the clutch was slipping and it was definitely odd to drive. My father and I decided to put a stock style 3 finger clutch in it. Perfection brand clutch kit 90338. 10 1/2 inch. Well, while it was up on the lift I replaced the rear main seal, motor and transmission mounts, bought new Doug's 453 headers and a new Hurst shifter that came with a lot of new clutch linkage parts. This is gonna be awesome , right? I even read on here about maybe having to modify the Z-bar, etc. Was prepared to do that, but as of right now, I don't need to yet. The reason you ask? I wasn't in the garage when Dad pulled the linkages and Z-bar out, so I don't remember what mine looked like before starting trans removal, etc. I would think its supposed to be level. Now it's ****-eyed forward and upward from a level position. My guess would be because of the stiff poly motor mounts changing where the motor rests at static. This cants the lower z-bar arm towards the bell housing, which actually gives me enough clearance for everything to move freely. I checked before hooking the linkages up. All linkages are now in place, but I cannot get the clutch adjusted to work properly. After reading several posts here and elsewhere, I've performed a lot of different adjustments. Setting the adjuster nut on the lower z-bar to clutch fork for 5/32", .050" clearance between disc and flywheel when the pedals all the way down, adjusting so that the throw-out bearing spins freely when clutch is disengaged and adjusting for 1" of pedal free play. If I set it so that ,at rest, the throw-out bearing spins free; I cannot get the car into any gear while it's running. If I go a little further, and push my luck with throw-out bearing clearance, It'll go into gear barely, and grind without ever going into reverse. We adjusted the new shifter linkage according to Hurst paperwork. That was easy. Where am I going wrong here? Dad says to keep adjusting the nut out so I can get it into gear, but then the throw-out bearing is riding on the fingers. That won't last long that way. I'll enclose pics that may be helpful. Last pic shows the rod that was in the car, next to last shows how the nut is against the washer. Not crazy about the angle, but that's where I'm at right now
Hi everyone, I know I haven't posted in a while; but I'm definitely in need of some help. So here goes. Bought a 74 Duster 360 4 speed car. Had a diaphragm cheapo clutch in it. What I've read says to remove the over-center spring and all should be well. Previous owner didn't do that, instead putting a metal bracket type stop on the pedal arm to limit travel and then bypassing clutch safety switch. Well of course the clutch was slipping and it was definitely odd to drive. My father and I decided to put a stock style 3 finger clutch in it. Perfection brand clutch kit 90338. 10 1/2 inch. Well, while it was up on the lift I replaced the rear main seal, motor and transmission mounts, bought new Doug's 453 headers and a new Hurst shifter that came with a lot of new clutch linkage parts. This is gonna be awesome , right? I even read on here about maybe having to modify the Z-bar, etc. Was prepared to do that, but as of right now, I don't need to yet. The reason you ask? I wasn't in the garage when Dad pulled the linkages and Z-bar out, so I don't remember what mine looked like before starting trans removal, etc. I would think its supposed to be level. Now it's ****-eyed forward and upward from a level position. My guess would be because of the stiff poly motor mounts changing where the motor rests at static. This cants the lower z-bar arm towards the bell housing, which actually gives me enough clearance for everything to move freely. I checked before hooking the linkages up. All linkages are now in place, but I cannot get the clutch adjusted to work properly. After reading several posts here and elsewhere, I've performed a lot of different adjustments. Setting the adjuster nut on the lower z-bar to clutch fork for 5/32", .050" clearance between disc and flywheel when the pedals all the way down, adjusting so that the throw-out bearing spins freely when clutch is disengaged and adjusting for 1" of pedal free play. If I set it so that ,at rest, the throw-out bearing spins free; I cannot get the car into any gear while it's running. If I go a little further, and push my luck with throw-out bearing clearance, It'll go into gear barely, and grind without ever going into reverse. We adjusted the new shifter linkage according to Hurst paperwork. That was easy. Where am I going wrong here? Dad says to keep adjusting the nut out so I can get it into gear, but then the throw-out bearing is riding on the fingers. That won't last long that way. I'll enclose pics that may be helpful. Last pic shows the rod that was in the car, next to last shows how the nut is against the washer. Not crazy about the angle, but that's where I'm at right now