74 Duster 4 speed adjustments

AJ/FormS said

The Z-bar is just an equalizer. It it runs at some angle other than stock, then so be it.
The secret is in getting the .080 plate departure together with the proper freeplay.
This is the job of the ratio in the Z-bar. The outboard lever length is fixed, cuz the down rod has to stay in the hole. But the inboard lever length,controls the departure/freeplay.
It would appear that this new clutch of yours needs a new ratio. I think there are three 67 to 73ish A-body ratios; one for the slanty and one for the big boys, and one for the SBMs. The slanty will not interchange, cuz it is too long. The BB is all squirrely on the inboard end.Yours appears to be correct.
If the inboard ball is too high, it will steal ratio, by moving in an arc instead of fully longitudinally.
So, I would look to the ball height first. It should be the same height from the ground plane as the outboard one, and in plan-view, on an imaginary line 90* to the centerline of the vehicle, and ending at the outboard ball.
Once you have that set up right and you still have problems,then you may have to lengthen the arm.
That's what I think.

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No offense; I'm not understanding your statement. "If the Z-bar runs at some other angle than stock, then so be it." BUT, "If the inboard ball is too high, it will steal ratio, by moving in an arc instead of fully longitudinally. So, I would look to the ball height first. It should be the same height from the ground plane as the outboard one, and in plan-view, on an imaginary line 90* to the centerline of the vehicle, and ending at the outboard ball." Believe me, being a tool and die maker, I visualize and want that Z-bar straight. I personally think that when I get the car driving, the engine and motor mounts will all "settle in" and it will probably look a little straighter. Which will, of course, necessitate another clutch adjustment, AND lead me to believe I'll wind up modding the Z-bar like I've read so much about. OR, the engine doesn't move at all, I buy the correct ball stud bracket for the bell housing; then I have to mod the Z-bar anyway. I have no problem with doing that, It'll take me an hour to do at work; it's just upon mocking it up in the first place, I actually had enough clearance between the headers and starter. The motor mount bolt and washer centerlines look to be in the same place as before any changes, so we'll see. Today, I'm gonna take some stuff back apart and check some other stuff. Thanks again everyone!