Trailer towing hookup questions

I don't worry much about tongue weight, I load it so it tows good. You DO want the trailer level LOADED if you can get it. You can play with car positioning

Consider stiffer rear springs/ overloads/ air bags.

Consider upgrading your brakes.....I forget the details I think you use 3/4T front calipers and pads, and larger rear cylinders. They do make the brakes pretty "touchy" "empty."

You may benefit from a load equalizer hitch of some sort. This is going to depend on your rear suspension and tires. On mine, I added extra leaves. These are not overloads, they are added right next to the "main stack" and are "in effect" at all times. I REALLY lucked out with these, as they were junkers and I "threw them in" and they just WORKED

Depending on your rear axle ratio, you may not "have fun" towing with this. I just dragged home a Durango on the "Goat Trail" Hiway 95 from Pullman WA to Coeur d Alene. This is a hilly, windy, narrow highway and in many places is 55-60mph. The way the "white whale" is geared (rear axle) You are BELOW THE HP CURVE at 60 or less. This means that you are locked out of OD, and the converter wants to kick in and out, and up hills may spend a fair amount of time in SECOND GEAR. I was considering installing a switch to keep the converter UNlocked, but I am trying to head towards a 3/4 T "project" It's the WW III lol (White Whale III)


That is why I have a 2015 RAM 3500 CTD Dually to pull my 37' ft 5ver and 24' enclosed hauler. The Aisin 6 speed auto is awesome and rarely downshifts in cruise @ 70-75MPH . Damn awesome truck! I ordered it with 4.11 gears and it will pull like a freight train. I can pass most anyone uphill with 16k of trailer in tow! I tried the 1500 route years ago and it only works for short hauls non interstate routes!