Slant six builders...Lets talk Cams

The car is a 1963 Plymouth valiant wagon and I plan to use some low gears ....either 3.55 or 3.91. Definitely not a race car, will be used on the streets, possibly tow a small pop up trailer and,/or a lawn mower trailer.

I don't care gas mileage and the 4 speed says the idle can be rough if need be, No power brakes or any kind of vacuum accessories at all

You can take an easy .100 from the head/deck and keep the stock pushrods.
Cam? KEEP IT SMALL!
The Slant is handicapped from birth with too small a bore, (for the stroke) and too long a rod.
Result..below 3000 rpm or so, it will be a dead suck pig no matter what you do.
Look at the Comp Cams RV grind they have listed on Summit.

X1 on Oregon Cam Grinding, as well as checking out slantsix.org. I've gained a ton of info and help from that site as I work through my build. I am assembling a 79 slant to replace my original motor in my 66 Valiant, and it sounds like your goals are similar to mine. I wanted something streetable but healthy, with decent mileage and running well on junk gas. I decided to set it up for torque as opposed to horsepower. Slants have a bigger problem with good intake flow than exhaust, so my cam is set up accordingly. I had a mild clean-up port job done on the head, had bigger valves installed, and shaved it enough to get the static compression up to about 9.2 which got me dynamic compression of 8.1. It's getting an Offy 4-BBL intake with an Edelbrock 500, and dual Dutra duals for the exhaust. The cam was custom ordered from OCG on the recommendation of one of the slant gurus. It's a 1416 grind on the intake, and 819 on the exhaust with 108 degree lobe centers and installed at 103 degrees or so. Total duration is .258/.248 (226/219 at .050 lift), and overall lift is .459/.437. Projected results of all this should put me at about 170 HP and about 230 foot pounds of torque.

Hope all this helps. If you decide to use OCG make sure you talk to Ken to set up your order. They do great work, turnaround time was quick at about a week, and the price was right - only about $80 or so if I recall.

I emailed Ken at Oregon Cams with my rebuilt 225 specs AND intended purpose and he recommended 2 grinds. I went with the milder one as mine is intended as a driver to go anywhere in the country. Buying a cam to get that hot car sound is kids stuff when the car sees 99.9% street use.

IIRC, I think it's 252 duration and about .43-.44 lift. Not much except when you consider my 1964 had a stock valve lift of .375. Rebuilt head, pocket ported, gasket matched and cut .080

You have a wagon with 170 cubes, a 3.09 first gear tranny and 3.55 or 3.91 gears. I have a 3.09 trans with a 3.23 rear and wish I had OD. I'm always ready to shift up to the next gear but it ain't there.


With the 3.09low, and performance gears(3.91 is almost too much)(and 3.55 probably just right), and about 26" tall tires, and 4 gears, You can go pretty big on the cam. Because the splits (excluding the 1-2) are pretty tight, I personally would pick a tight LSA like 108. With a 10.97 starter gear launching you pretty nice with a lightweight A,Getting to 20mph/3000rpm will be the key.From there on up, you will be all right. So, that means a bit of clutch slippage will be all you need.3.55s will get you 55mph@5000 rpm in second gear
So if the shift rpm was to be 5000, then the power peak might be 4600. I don't know what durations that might be for a slanty, but for a 360 that would be pretty small, maybe a 250ish. I imagine for a 225, you might want 260 ish