I can share what I did on mine:
I used a PRK1200D-S kit from Portland Transmission which I obtained via eBay. it's a nice kit with pretty much everything in your kit you have linked to, BUT, mine used Raybestos standard-type frictions. This was my first rebuild and I did a lot of research before buying a kit. I discarded the idea of red alto frictions, kolenes, etc etc after it ebcame clear that they are THINNER than OEM-style frictions and steels in order to fit more of each in the clutch housing.
The only problem with that idea is they can't absorb heat from slippage as well as the original-style stuff, so I said nope. Past that, I had my original cast iron front band relined(technically I exchanged it for one already done). I threw the "new and not improved" flex-style band that came with the kit in the garbage and suggest you do the same. Hold one beside the other and you'll see how much better the original is. I re-used the original low-reverse band, it was fine and gets little wear.
I replaced the front bushing even though mine was fine. I did not replace any others because not only does the kit not come with them but they were also in very good condition. The thrust washers were all fine but measure them to make sure. Clean clean clean. Don't forget the washers on the pump bolts. Make sure the halves of the pump are aligned or you'll never get it back in the case.
I also used the TF-2 and somehow got it installed DESPITE using the instructions. I don't know if the people that have written and revised those instructions over the years have gotten bored with it and decided to mix in some challenges into it, but those instructions are terrible. Several steps give you three or 4 options without ANY explanation what the result of each choice would be, outside of some silly references to coffee-spilling or whatever.
I read several TF-2 install threads and they all said the same thing...if you want a transmission that you can even stand to drive, go conservative on every choice. You can ALWAYS go back later and drill holes larger, etc but if you go too aggressive in the beginning you will have to do it over with another VB. I left the factory 3.8 ratio kickdown lever in place. I did the accumulator mod in the TF-2 kit along with the most conservative line pressure mods.
The end result is that I have a sweet-shifting trans. It goes in gear right now, shifts right now but is not harsh. The line pressure mods make it very picky about throttle-pressure settings. I had to back my adjustment off looser than it was or it wouldn't get out of 2nd gear. I used the Factory Service manual for my year, worked well.
Hope this helps. That other guy got 315 replies and never even finished it to my knowledge. Good luck man.