Yet another 904 rebuild thread, what kit?

72bluNblu said
Thank you sir! Yeah, I don't want a full manual auto. If I was going to do that I'd just put in an 833 and shift for real. This is a street car with a stock console shifter.

Besides maybe swapping out the frictions for the A500 pieces, is there anything else thats not in that kit I linked above that I should take care of while I'm in there besides the reverse band and the TF2 kit? Springs and rollers? Accumulator?

As for TylerW and jPar, guys, take it somewhere else. You want to pm each other nasty messages go right ahead. TylerW deleted the only post that was even relevant to my original question. I don't care who's a guru or who made a better YouTube video or which one of you is running faster at the drag strip. I just don't care. I wanted some opinions on the parts I've chosen for a pretty mild build that will probably see 99% street duty. I don't need some manual shifted bullet proof race trans that snaps u-joints backing up a 300ish hp 318. It's just dumb and unnecessary, and it'll make a lousy driver set up that way.

I asked about the red plates etc mostly to see if people think I needed them. I know they're more expensive and they'll hold more torque but that doesn't make them better for my application. That's like saying carbon-on-carbon disk brakes are the best and everything should run them. Yeah, they're spectacular for a formula-1 car. But even formula-1 cars can't get them up into their operating temperature in the rain, making them terrible for anything else.

For street use the lowest level of friction that will get the job done is usually best in my experience. More forgiving, easier to drive, and as long as the parts are up to the job they'll last just fine. Using higher performance parts that aren't necessary just makes crap more difficult to drive. I mean, if I need them I need them. If I don't, and it sounds like I don't, then they're an unnecessary expense that won't improve (and could actually worsen) my driving experience. If they're better for a reason and they're not just overkill then tell me why they'll work better for this application. I'm ok with a little overbuild but too much doesn't make for a good driver. I'm going to commute in this thing, not flog it on the drag strip.

Get a spring and roller kit and replace the old ones in the sprag. Take a photo of the way the springs and rollers are mounted. There is only one RIGHT way to put them in, but you sure as hell can get them in wrong. You might want to make sure the pump bushing is Perfect, if not replace it. You can see how good your pump bushing is/or is not by looking at the hub(neck) of your converter. Check all bushings. By the way, if the pump bushing needs to be replaced, get the babbit one, not the bronze one. Consider getting a complete washer kit, not expensive and might be required. There is a small thimble filter called the governor screen, again cheap, and why not change it while the transmission is apart. Sonnax makes an intermediate accumulator repair kit you might want to also think about, and both Sonnax and Superior have an upgraded reverse servo piston for you. On the rear clutch there is a diaphragm spring that is known to crack, again, an inexpensive item. At the rear of the trans there is an output shaft ball bearing. Check it out too. By all means get the ATRA book on repairing the transmission. It will be full of information on clearances etc. All your parts would be available at a local Transtar parts warehouse. Google them to get the one nearest you. Hope this all helps.
Have fun and "DO IT RIGHT ONCE"