Which longacre for bump steer

11.2 said
Alignment specs are
Camber -.56. -.75
Caster. 6.28. 6.79
Toe. .09. .08

As far as the uca's I've heard about the hotchkiss will change the geometry. Do all uca's change the geometry or just hotchkiss. I'm thinking if I'm going to change them out I should get some that will address any issues.

Huh. Well first, your alignment is set up for pretty significantly crowned roads. A 1/4* of camber and a 1/2* of caster both set to pull the car left is pretty significant. I set mine the same on both sides and don't worry about the pull to the right when I drive on crowned roads. But even if you spend a lot of time on crowned roads I would set the camber equal and set up a 1/2* of cross caster. You have about 1/16" of toe as well, depending on your car and the amount of play in your steering that's on the small side. Driving down the road pulls all the slack out of the steering, so, if you only have 1/16" toe in you may actually be getting a little toe out when you drive. You're shooting for 0 when in motion. With all new stuff you can usually get away with 1/16", but that's pretty small on these old cars. Going closer to 1/8" toe in may improve the twitchiness. Already having over 6* of caster though should be plenty caster to have it return to center, so you may have some bump steer in there contributing to what you're feeling. Most E-bodies don't if they're lowered a bit, but there are always exceptions.

As far as the tubular arms go, they all change the geometry some. Most have about an extra +3* of caster built into them. The E-body Hotchkis arms are unique in that they relocate the front suspension mounting point to remove anti-dive. E-bodies used the same suspension as the B-bodies, which included the B-body station wagons. So, that suspension has a lot of anti-dive built into it for those big block station wagons. But that makes your camber curves worse. So Hotchkis moved the front mount to take anti-dive out and improve the camber curves. They figured most folks that want a good handling car have already doubled the spring rate of their torsion bars, which is plenty of anti-dive. Problem is they use heim joint ends, and I don't think those belong on street cars. My first sent only lasted 7k miles before Hotchkis was nice enough to replace them for me. My second set got their little heim boots, but another 7k miles in and I don't think they'll make 10k.