273 rocker arm adjustment

Rockers:

braze shut the top rocker hole, ok, what brazing material/method have you found works best? Also with the top hole plugged, how does the top of valve and tip of rocker get oil?

I found a 7/64 drill bit fits (little under .100") fits nicely in the two holes for the valve lash adjuster threaded bore (the 2 holes on the left), so using those two holes as a guide, drill through to the other side of the rocker on the right? Then drill tap and plug the most outer hole on the left of the valve lash adjuster threaded bore? that makes sense to me because it will help keep oil going to the top cup of the push rod which is my problem area.

Rocker pivot shafts:
uhhhhhhhhhhhh oh boy im going in circles here, how do i drill when im on the base circle of the cam?

the shafts pictured have two holes, am i going to end up with two holes?

I should have a hole with banana grooves right where the galling is happening.?

the rocker arm pictured, has 4 holes and the shaft has two holes

sorry guys...i feel like a retard ...i may need some more step by step instructions with pictures...
Your fine brother. I ain't a welder & I had my shop take care of that part. with the top hole brazed shut the holes we will add (3/9 o'clock with the mini file stuck into em in the pic to show where) will take care of the valve tip/pushrod tip. A 7/64 bit is fine. the rockers already have an inner hole on the pushrod side for oil to dribble down to the pushrod & a large outer hole on that same side that was needed to access/drill that inner hole & after you drill on thru the already there inner hole & on thru the shaft then the outer hole is drill/tapped/plugged shut as it is a leak & no longer needed. paint the shafts lengthwise on each side with Dykem & mockup & with the pushrods out so you are in effect on base circle on all of em (with you holding the rocker so it touches the valve tip on the other side) stick a thin scribe with a straight shank on the end (HF has just what you need) & scribe a little "circle" in the dye on the shaft and on the spring side do the same thing with a scribe with a 90 deg bend on the end cuz the spring is sorta in the way, thru the hole you have already drilled in the rocker (3 0'clock position) & mark the shaft then remove everything & drill the shafts for the holes in the dye on both sides. BUT FIRST before scribing, use rocker shaft thin shims (Hughes & others have em) to locate the rockers laterally on the shafts in addition to the OE thick spacers so there is .015" clearance side to side per pair & also the 5 hold downs are a bit oversize so there is some wiggle room there & this is the time consuming part is adding/juggling shims/holdowns till each pair of rockers are CENTERED on the valve tips with the .015" clearance per pair till you get each rocker dead on & scribed then undo everything & drill the rockers & the shafts in the dye & deburr the shaft ID when done drilling. The "side" oe holes in the pic are clocked wrong & should be soldered shut. you keep the holes in the banana grooves & when mocking up be sure to have the notch down & to the rear on the pass side & down & to the front on the drivers side. take alot of care to get it mocked up DEAD ON before you reach for the scribe. for final assy you would adj everything side to side till the holes line up before you evenly tighten/torque the (5) holdown bolts. I like to get the rocker arm adjusting screws adjusted for the vertical pushrod cold clearance I want THEN remove the rockers & goop the lobes then reinstall the rocker assys & go thru the side to side clearance setting but that's just me & my OCD. YMMV! but cam failures are epidemic & I want the lobes lubed good for startup along with light spring pressure for breakin