Long-off 340 build

What kind of transmission setup would be best for street cruising?

  • 4-spd

    Votes: 10 38.5%
  • 4-spd w/ OD unit (like a GearVendors)

    Votes: 4 15.4%
  • Look for an applicable 5-spd

    Votes: 12 46.2%

  • Total voters
    26
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... I also don't wanna wreck my pride and joy just because some d!p$h*t hasn't heard of a mirror or turn signal.

Power brakes ain't gonna save ya. In an emergency stop with power brakes you're likely to lock up all four and slide into the guy.

When you drive these old cars you need your wits, a loud pair of horns, good well inflated tires and a decent dollop of roadcraft.

All the best :).
 
Bunch of comments saying Tony's engine seize was because of oil contamination on part of "the orange can". Is fram really that bad of an oil filter or is it being blown outta proportion?
Frams have apparently changed for the worse on some models of filters but not all. But this particular video is inconclusive on that point, and likely some commentors are just jumping the Fram-bashing badwagon. If it worries you, there are other known good filters out there.

It could also have been poor bearing clearances. I noticed that a couple of the pistons had scuffed too. We don't know what all they did to the engine either; the oil was amazingly black for an engine that new. (And when you see a guy using an air rachet for a breaker bar, you gotta wonder...)
 
Power brakes ain't gonna save ya. In an emergency stop with power brakes you're likely to lock up all four and slide into the guy.

When you drive these old cars you need your wits, a loud pair of horns, good well inflated tires and a decent dollop of roadcraft.

All the best :).

The brake fairy must have not left you money under your pillow when you asked for some chump change to get you counseling for brake anger......

Talk about mucking up a thread......

Jw
 
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The brake fairy must have not left you money under your pillow when you asked for some chump change to get you counseling for brake anger......

Talk about mucking up a thread......

Jw

I had actually finished in this thread. FWIW, the OP had no issue...in fact, he asked me for more info.

You seem to be the resident power brake nazi (going by you willingness to hit the disagree button).....so I think I might hang around and post a little more just to annoy you. Remember, the red X is in the lower RH corner of the post. Click away, moonunit.
 
If we could not start a rage war here, I'd appreciate it. Even though I had a general idea of where I wanted to go with this not-too-distant future build, I wasn't 100% sure on the way to go to best meet my goals, which is why I started this thread. Getting enough opinions until then gives me a better idea of the pros and cons of each possibility so I can make my own choice. Let's not have differences of opinion turn the whole thread sour

Also, 72Valiant4Door I'm sure I get what you're insinuating but if you could put it into words that would be great too
 
I'm going through the exact same situation as you, but you don't mention anything about price. You say you are saving. What is that magic number that you are trying to reach?

Any specific motor ideas? Stroked? Forged internals? The cost, depending on the route you go, on a finished motor alone can surpass $5k...easily...

I thought about going the Tremec route, but decided and bought the A833. Just cheaper and can drop right in, given you already have the hump tacked in. If RPMs on the highway start bugging me, then I will buy the Passon 4spd OD gearset. And if I really want more than 4 gears, I will go with the Passon 5spd (which I think is still cheaper in the long run than doing a Tremec conversion).

Also what will be your base? If it will be an actual 71 340 car, then I would be hesitant to affect the originality of the car.
 
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I'm going through the exact same situation as you, but you don't mention anything about price. You say you are saving. What is that magic number that you are trying to reach?

Any specific motor ideas? Stroked? Forged internals? The cost, depending on the route you go, on a finished motor alone can surpass $5k...easily...

I thought about going the Tremec route, but decided and bought the A833. Just cheaper and can drop right in, given you already have the hump tacked in. If RPMs on the highway start bugging me, then I will buy the Passon 4spd OD gearset. And if I really want more than 4 gears, I will go with the Passon 5spd (which I think is still cheaper in the long run than doing a Tremec conversion).

Also what will be your base? If it will be an actual 71 340 car, then I would be hesitant to affect the originality of the car.
To recap on this thread, I want a 71 Demon with a 340 block in it (not hung up on numbers matching, if I find a Demon that was originally a 318 or slant car then I'll still do it the service of dropping in a 340). I'm aware the costs on my build will mount up with the direction I'm going, but I'm not one of the crowd that takes pride in the car being rusty and ratty so I'll flip a bit o coin to clean it up and give it a new lease on life (and if I don't do the work upfront then I know I'll end up doing it later, so I might as well do it upfront). Engine internals, I'm not sure about forged, figured that'd be something I can decide on later.

So far my options for trans are the T56 and the Passon 5spd (considered the gearvendors OD but I'm kinda iffy on that unit, don't know what its reliability is). The T56 hovers over $3K and the Passon over $4K, and while the Tremec requires raising the floor tunnel a bit the Passon last I heard has a mile long waitlist (what does that say about replacement parts if something breaks?).

Besides some upgrades in the performance area (brakes engine bits, trans), I wanna keep the look mostly stock. What I will do is put slightly bigger/wider tires on it (what will fit without raising or cutting wells) and swap in the rectangular speedo cluster from the 72.

I'm not hung up on PURE originality, I'm good with keeping the looks the same but if it's something like brakes or engine/trans I won't hesitate to upgrade (as far as my brake recommendations in past replies, I'm meeting them in the middle and planning to go full-disc manual).

I met a guy here in town awhile back, spotted his 69 Roadrunner. Got to talking about it, the shop in town that specializes in Mopar resto's, etc (Graveyard Carz they got a tv show, go figure). He shows me all the work he did on it, and while at first glance it looks stock, he did some upgrades: electric fan, A/C, stereo+subs (original stereo still in just for show) and front disc brakes from a 73 Duster. Says they work way better than the stock all-drums, and like he said, "If you don't put money on stuff like brakes, why put in the work on it? It's just gonna end up in the junkyard again after you wreck it"

20170703_115308[1].jpg


20170703_115344[1].jpg
 
To recap on this thread, I want a 71 Demon with a 340 block in it (not hung up on numbers matching, if I find a Demon that was originally a 318 or slant car then I'll still do it the service of dropping in a 340). I'm aware the costs on my build will mount up with the direction I'm going, but I'm not one of the crowd that takes pride in the car being rusty and ratty so I'll flip a bit o coin to clean it up and give it a new lease on life (and if I don't do the work upfront then I know I'll end up doing it later, so I might as well do it upfront). Engine internals, I'm not sure about forged, figured that'd be something I can decide on later.

So far my options for trans are the T56 and the Passon 5spd (considered the gearvendors OD but I'm kinda iffy on that unit, don't know what its reliability is). The T56 hovers over $3K and the Passon over $4K, and while the Tremec requires raising the floor tunnel a bit the Passon last I heard has a mile long waitlist (what does that say about replacement parts if something breaks?).

Besides some upgrades in the performance area (brakes engine bits, trans), I wanna keep the look mostly stock. What I will do is put slightly bigger/wider tires on it (what will fit without raising or cutting wells) and swap in the rectangular speedo cluster from the 72.

I'm not hung up on PURE originality, I'm good with keeping the looks the same but if it's something like brakes or engine/trans I won't hesitate to upgrade (as far as my brake recommendations in past replies, I'm meeting them in the middle and planning to go full-disc manual).

I met a guy here in town awhile back, spotted his 69 Roadrunner. Got to talking about it, the shop in town that specializes in Mopar resto's, etc (Graveyard Carz they got a tv show, go figure). He shows me all the work he did on it, and while at first glance it looks stock, he did some upgrades: electric fan, A/C, stereo+subs (original stereo still in just for show) and front disc brakes from a 73 Duster. Says they work way better than the stock all-drums, and like he said, "If you don't put money on stuff like brakes, why put in the work on it? It's just gonna end up in the junkyard again after you wreck it"

View attachment 1715071039

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I only see two problems with the above post.
1. Getting a Passon gear box. I'd love to have one, but I'm not into being on lists and having my cash not liquid. Not saying Jamie is a crook, because he's not. I do business with him all the time. When he can up production to where I wait less then a year, I'm all in.

2. You have to cut the crap out of the car to get the T56 in there. If I had to cut one up that much, I'd put a full chassis under it.

That's the only things I see holding you back.
 
I only see two problems with the above post.
1. Getting a Passon gear box. I'd love to have one, but I'm not into being on lists and having my cash not liquid. Not saying Jamie is a crook, because he's not. I do business with him all the time. When he can up production to where I wait less then a year, I'm all in.

2. You have to cut the crap out of the car to get the T56 in there. If I had to cut one up that much, I'd put a full chassis under it.

That's the only things I see holding you back.
Yeah I figure my option will ultimately rest on which one is more readily available whenever I save up enough to start my build. If Passon has upped their production and cleared their waitlist by then, I'll choose the Passon. Otherwise I'll be looking into the T56.
 
Yeah I figure my option will ultimately rest on which one is more readily available whenever I save up enough to start my build. If Passon has upped their production and cleared their waitlist by then, I'll choose the Passon. Otherwise I'll be looking into the T56.


Where is marcola?
 
Yeah like stixx said, more outside the Springfield area (Springfield is home to the mopar restoration shop on tv, Graveyard Carz, they're right off my daily commute and funny thing we used to party with the owner's daughter :rolleyes: )
 
OK so I've been away for a while, but during that time I refined a list of parts and stuff that I have in mind. NOTE: I best not be seeing 72Valiant4Door posting some crap about spending, just because he's too cheap

FIRST THING'S FIRST, I have a cam selection up for scrutiny 20-810-9 - Xtreme Energy™ Retro-Fit Hydraulic Roller Camshafts

I'm also seriously considering this, to get the intake, distributor, and decent efi all in one Edelbrock 32530: Pro-Flo 3 EFI System Small Block Chrysler | JEGS
I know it's a spendy set but with a sequential injection system on a super victor intake I figure it's worth a shot. Since EFI needs hi pressure, I'm stuck between a total tank swap Aeromotive 18344: Fuel Tank with 340 Stealth Fuel Pump 1970-76 Dart/Duster | JEGS or efi pressure sump Edelbrock 36052: Replacement High Pressure EFI Sump Fuel Tank | JEGS

Transmission options are still the same, Tremec T56 or Passon 855 if it ever becomes available

Since I'm going with the electric fan route Flex-a-lite 160: 16" Diameter Black Magic S-Blade Electric Fan Adjustable Thermostat | JEGS and I'll be powering other stuff like the efi system a stereo, I figured looking at a beefier alternator was in order. What kinda amperage should I be looking at? Powermaster 8-47529: Upgrade Alternator Natural Finish | JEGS

Other stuff:
-Aluminum heads Edelbrock 60775: Performer RPM Cylinder Head for Small Block Chrysler | JEGS
(I know I need the rocker shaft, rockers, lifters, & pushrods)
-8.75" suregrip with 3.23 or 3.55 gears
-Full disc brake set (only replacing front discs that are worn or shot)

Brainstorming Here:
-Front: 215/60R14 Radial TA on 14x7 Rallye wheels
-Rear: 225/60R15 Radial TA on 15x7 Rallye wheels
 
all the trouble your going thru to build a motor with aluminum heads, roller cam, etc, on a 340, I'm curious as to why not going with a 408 crate motor? May be money ahead with all the little stuff, like rockers, etc, and still have a warranty. Blueprint Engines BPC4083CT: Small Block Chrysler 408ci Stroker Base Engine 445HP/500TQ | JEGS
It seems like everybody and their grandma is goin for big block builds (I disagree with that listing calling a 408 a small block). If I was gonna do a big block I woulda got a B or E body, but I just want a lighter small block to keep that A body halfway nimble. And while a big block crate engine may be cheaper than all this stuff, I'll be making up that difference over time with the less gas I'll be using.

Sorry for going against the grain there, but I just think that always going for the big blocks is kinda overdone. I'm gonna give the 340 its time to shine
 
If going the hydraulic roller route you will need to inspect the lifter bores on your LA and see if they are chamfered or not. Depending on what you find you will need to either bush the bores or, an easier way, use the Hughes rollers that have the lowered oil band.
Hughes Engines

With regards to the 408 comment, I believe chrispy was referring to a stroked out 360. Also I think Blueprint uses Magnum blocks (LA based and a small block).
 
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408 small block....is a 360..small block (LA-based engine series) with a 4" stroker crank, yielding 408 cubes. Anyway you slice it, its a small block. Big Blocks are a whole other series of engines.
 
Don't get those headers. I would opt for some TTI short-tube block huggers or something else. I have those hookers on my motor and the driver's side is a PAIN to work on. I have to unbolt the header just to get the the #5 and #7 spark plugs
 
It seems like everybody and their grandma is goin for big block builds (I disagree with that listing calling a 408 a small block). If I was gonna do a big block I woulda got a B or E body, but I just want a lighter small block to keep that A body halfway nimble. And while a big block crate engine may be cheaper than all this stuff, I'll be making up that difference over time with the less gas I'll be using.

Sorry for going against the grain there, but I just think that always going for the big blocks is kinda overdone. I'm gonna give the 340 its time to shine

IMO, being been there and done that with a lot of those parts, I would not do the single plane MPFI with that combo.

The listed engine above, the 408 IS a small block.
Not a big block.
 
the super victor is huge for this cam. I think the front tire choice is too small-go 215 60 15. yes, check the top of the lifter bores for amount of chamfer
 
I know that it said "Stroker" which means stroked out small block, but the fact of the matter is that it takes it out to big block proportions. You're still tacking on more engine. I don't plan on stroking out this small block.

If going the hydraulic roller route you will need to inspect the lifter bores on your LA and see if they are chamfered or not. Depending on what you find you will need to either bush the bores or, an easier way, use the Hughes rollers that have the lowered oil band.
Hughes Engines

With regards to the 408 comment, I believe chrispy was referring to a stroked out 360. Also I think Blueprint uses Magnum blocks (LA based and a small block).
I listed below that that I'd need all the other upper engine bits (rockershaft, rockers, pushrods, lifters, etc). Comp cams also lists lifters which I believe are retrofit to fit in place of the stock tappet lifters COMP Cams: Retro-Fit Hydraulic Roller Lifters; Chrysler Small Block 273-360 but it looks like your pick was cheaper

The rear tire arent gonna do you any good at 225 60 15.lol
Then what tire size WILL work? I was looking at this 1971 Dodge Dart Demon 340 2-Door Coupe 4-speed tire sizes (since September 1970 for North America U.S.)

Don't get those headers. I would opt for some TTI short-tube block huggers or something else. I have those hookers on my motor and the driver's side is a PAIN to work on. I have to unbolt the header just to get the the #5 and #7 spark plugs
Good to know. Do you know where I can find ones like that?

IMO, being been there and done that with a lot of those parts, I would not do the single plane MPFI with that combo.

The listed engine above, the 408 IS a small block.
Not a big block.
The problem is dual plane hasn't been shown to play nice with efi, I know that's always been throttle body efi, but where else is there a bunged-out LA dual-plane intake? The only other port-injection-ready intake even remotely mopar was for a 440, and even that was single plane. Even if I were to get a dual-plane intake and weld in injector bungs, there are few standalone MPI systems minus intake. This set having everything at the ready is the least work for the money

No matter what, my options for efi-compatibility leave me at single-plane intake
 
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the super victor is huge for this cam. I think the front tire choice is too small-go 215 60 15. yes, check the top of the lifter bores for amount of chamfer
I have a slightly larger choice for cam 20-811-9 - Xtreme Energy™ Retro-Fit Hydraulic Roller Camshafts dont plan on getting anymore aggressive than that

The reason for my tire choices is based on this resource saying what the stock tires are for the demon 1971 Dodge Dart Demon 340 2-Door Coupe 4-speed tire sizes (since September 1970 for North America U.S.) 205/70R14 is listed as stock demon size. I was thinking an inch bigger and a few sizes wider, so I guess I can substitute the fronts BF Goodrich Radial TA | BF Goodrich Radial T/A

If that stock number is incorrect then I guess I'll just have to wait until I get my hands on one so I can do actual measurements myself. I haven't gotten any other input on what sizes will work in those wheelwells
 
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