Long-off 340 build

What kind of transmission setup would be best for street cruising?

  • 4-spd

    Votes: 10 38.5%
  • 4-spd w/ OD unit (like a GearVendors)

    Votes: 4 15.4%
  • Look for an applicable 5-spd

    Votes: 12 46.2%

  • Total voters
    26
-
I listed below that that I'd need all the other upper engine bits (rockershaft, rockers, pushrods, lifters, etc). Comp cams also lists lifters which I believe are retrofit to fit in place of the stock tappet lifters COMP Cams: Retro-Fit Hydraulic Roller Lifters; Chrysler Small Block 273-360 but it looks like your pick was cheaper

I mentioned the Hughes because they have the lowered oil band. COMP Cams might have that also, just verify. Again all of this depends on your lifter bores...if they are chamfered and you don't have the correct lifters, you will have oil pressure issues. The Hughes link that I posted earlier discuss this problem in more detail.
 
Last edited:
I mentioned the Hughes because they have the lowered oil band. COMP Cams might have that also, just verify. Again all of this depends on your lifter bores...if they are chamfered and you don't have the correct lifters, you will have oil pressure issues. The Hughes link that I posted earlier discuss this problem in more detail.
Well I was all for the Hughes lifters, til I saw this on their page:
"Lifters will drop in with heads on. (Stock iron only). Will not drop in with aluminum heads."

What is the weight difference between the stock heads and an aluminum set? How good is the cooling on stock? If the weight difference is nominal, and cooling is still decent, then I may consider foregoing the aluminum heads.
 
Well I got the first major step out of the way. I came across a 72 Demon on craigslist over in Boise, and with my brother's help I went over 400 miles across the high desert to go get it. Slant 6 auto car, with Hotchkis suspension (plus sway bars in the trunk, waiting to be installed).

20170916_164920.jpg
20170917_015647.jpg
20170917_015702.jpg
20170918_005128.jpg
20170918_005234.jpg
20170918_010809.jpg
20170918_010840.jpg
20170918_010955.jpg
20170918_010848.jpg


20170918_011000.jpg
 
Good start!

AL heads drop 20-25 lbs each versus iron. With an AL intake, you drop 65-70 lbs total.
 
I mentioned the Hughes because they have the lowered oil band. COMP Cams might have that also, just verify. Again all of this depends on your lifter bores...if they are chamfered and you don't have the correct lifters, you will have oil pressure issues. The Hughes link that I posted earlier discuss this problem in more detail.
IIRC, some folks have had issues with the oil bands on some blocks regardless of lifter type, if that particular block's chamfers are deep. And it also depends on the base circle diamter of the particular cam.

The chamfers are quite variable in how deep they go. Some blocks chamfers are shallow and so have fewer/no issues. I have never read an explanation of why the chamfer depths were so varied, or exactly what purpose they served in the first place.
 
IIRC, some folks have had issues with the oil bands on some blocks regardless of lifter type, if that particular block's chamfers are deep. And it also depends on the base circle diamter of the particular cam.

The chamfers are quite variable in how deep they go. Some blocks chamfers are shallow and so have fewer/no issues. I have never read an explanation of why the chamfer depths were so varied, or exactly what purpose they served in the first place.
This sounds like something I'll have to look into more, but it'll have to be later on down the road.

Right now, my first order of business is body work/taking care of the rust spots. I figure the order of priority is:
  • Body work
  • Paint
  • Engine/trans
  • Other peripherals (brakes, rest of powertrain, electrical etc)
  • Interior
So far upon inspection the worst rust is just various spots on the body panels, particularly the hood, trunk lid and a spot on the passenger side front pillar. No holes in the trunk pan, but he did say the passenger side floor may need to be fixed too. No rust on the frame. As you can see from the full picture above, he started grinding away paint on the driver side but stopped, I do kinda wish he woulda either committed to it or just not have started on that. At least I got it here and in the garage when I did, weather went full monsoon the past few days (and there's snow now on the pass, so glad I dodged that bullet). Still, since it'll be a while before I can start on any body work I'm wondering whether (and how) I should cover that up.

I also gotta find a way to take it into town, I have 30 days to get an Oregon title for it and they have to visually inspect the car's VIN. Nothing but rain in the forseeable forecast, don't want bare metal against the rain. Car runs and all, albeit with the brake booster he put on it the air cleaner doesn't fit anymore, so looking for one that'll fit.

P.S. Since I'll be going with a totally different engine and trans, would anybody here who lives in Oregon be interested in a slant 6 and/or 904 trans down the road? 904 seems to be ok, and the slant is kinda dirty but just needs a new dipstick (very little blow by, not enough to move a cloth).
 
-
Back
Top