Too much fuel?

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have you verified timing and top dead center?
(what i mean is, when the number one piston is at top dead center, of the compression stroke, is the timing mark at 0 degrees? they slip some times)

you mentioned you never did this before, please tell us exactly how you lined up the timing marks on the cam

you did not by any chance swap out the timing covers, did you ?

I used the ruler part of a carpenters square to line up the two dots on the gears. Im not sure about the harmonic balancer, the timing marks lined uo i think but i cant remember so ill need to check later. it is an aftermarket one if that makes a difference. The original wasnt doing too well.
 
I used the ruler part of a carpenters square to line up the two dots on the gears.
I didnt look at the harmonic balancer, it is an aftermarketone. The original wasnt doing too well.

both marks pointing up, both down, both in or both out?

and it might be helpful to verify the marks on the balancer are accurate
no point in trying to get the timing set if you dont actually know how the number on the balancer relates to the piston
 
Sounds like you have the XE268H Comp cam. With the low compression, it won't run at lower RPM without a lot more timing. Crank it up.

That's the one. Ill try more timing after i verify tdc later. You move the distributor ccw to advance and cw to retard right?
 
both marks pointing up, both down, both in or both out?

and it might be helpful to verify the marks on the balancer are accurate
no point in trying to get the timing set if you dont actually know how the number on the balancer relates to the piston

Both timing gear marks were pointing directly at each other, the top is down and bottom is up.
 
that sounds right, so we can assume it is very close (allowing for a few degrees in the cam itself)

verify the timing marks on the balancer and take it from there
 
That's the one. Ill try more timing after i verify tdc later. You move the distributor ccw to advance and cw to retard right?
Correct. It would be a good idea to purchase a piston stop to verify the mark on your balancer. It threads into the spark plug hole.
 

I havent been able to look in the carb yet but ill see if i can today, it does occasionally shoot fire back out of the carb though so im not sure if i want to try that.[/QUOTE]
Timing is off. Twist in more advance and it will start and run. The backfire through the carb is the clue.
 
Correct. It would be a good idea to purchase a piston stop to verify the mark on your balancer. It threads into the spark plug hole.
Ive just been having a freind turn it slow by hand while i hold a screwdriver in the plug hole:lol:
 
I havent been able to look in the carb yet but ill see if i can today, it does occasionally shoot fire back out of the carb though so im not sure if i want to try that.
Timing is off. Twist in more advance and it will start and run. The backfire through the carb is the clue.[/QUOTE]

Okay, thanks ill do that:thumbsup:
 
Ive just been having a freind turn it slow by hand while i hold a screwdriver in the plug hole:lol:
With a piston stop, you turn the crank until it touches the stop and mark the balancer. Turn it the other way until you hit the stop, make the balancer. Then, you mark right in between those two marks for your TDC. I have a 318 with 135 PSI cranking pressure and the same cam. I locked my distributor in at 38 degrees, so don't be alarmed if your timing is very high. If you are running mechanical/vacuum advance, you will not want to go too far over 14 degs depending on your distributor setup. With your mechanical/vacuum advance added, you may have detonation. You'll need a timing light with a dial on it since your timing cover only goes to 10 degs. Look at some of the threads on how to check your initial, mechanical, and vacuum advance. I'd also get a vacuum gauge if you don't already have one. Set your idle mixture screws for the highest vacuum. The tune takes a while, but is worth the time to get it right.
 
You have received a lot of excelent ideas. I would like to add that your carb could be shot and letting in too much fuel. Once you have tried all the ideas presented, I think it might be wise to look into the possibility of a bad carb.
 
Im running e3 plugs, they arent fouled they're just black and soaked in gas. And they are new
Yes it's it sound like timing . Specially if it backfires through the carb and like 73 swinger said double check the firing order.
 
Does anyone have a vaccum hose diagram for the 1974 318 by chance?
 
If you cant get it to run how do you know it is timed right? It sure sounds like it needs more advance. Try twisting the distributor ccw in small increments and try starting it. Do the final timing once it is running well.

Two other thoughts, are you 100% certain that the cam is properly installed and degreed?

When it is running, if you look down the carb throat do you see fuel dribbling out the venturis? You should not see any.

Good luck!
It looks like there is fuel dribbling out of the venturis. What does that mean?
 
i had same problem, found a large vacuum hose loose at rear of carb,it would start, but had to keep screw on carb all the way down or hold it at about 2000 rpm to keep it running, after i fixed vacuum leak it idled down at about 800 rpm with no trouble, have you got gas tank on car are running on a fuel cell in the trunk, if you have a manual fuel pump and a fuel cell that gravity flows to your pump, it may be letting too much fuel pressure on your pump, had this problem on a 70 duster, keep fuel cell as close to level with fuel pump as possible, if you have fire backfiring thru carb, you definately have the timing off or cross wired
 
Finally got it to idle but it wont stay running when i give it gas. Unless i give it a **** ton.
 
Guys, yall all know with ethanol in the fuel, it's damn near impossible to read plugs. So if his plugs are black, it is 100% a fuel problem. Could the timing be affecting it too? Sure, but not so much to turn the plugs black with ethanol laced gas. Ain't happenin. Sounds to me like either the floats are compromised and taking on gas, or there is dirt in the needle and seat holding it open. Either way, you have a CARBURETOR problem.
 
I added a fuel pressure regulator, moved timing up a few degrees, and adjusted the idle mixture screws.
Check your float level. Not sure if your carb has a plastic float or not. If so, it could be cracked and filling with fuel. May be worth buying a rebuild kit and going though it all.
 
And what carb are you running? What did you set your regulator at?
 
Check your float level. Not sure if your carb has a plastic float or not. If so, it could be cracked and filling with fuel. May be worth buying a rebuild kit and going though it all.
The carb has brass floats. I may jump to a 4 bbl I've gathered most of the parts needed.
 
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