72 Duster Resurrection

As usual, thanks for all the solid advice, this thread is turning into a big checklist of things I will need to do.

So, an update:

I got the carb to pull its own gas (details further down), threw some air in the very cracked looking tires, and for the first time in years, this 1972 plymouth Duster cruised down my neighborhood street at about 5mph. It was clunky, dirty, smelly, dangerous, and completely awesome. See more details below.


Thank you for the well wishes for a speedy recovery. While i am a captive audience i will help as much as i can. Its Prob bad sender for the water temp. Its prob shorted internally to ground. If the IVR was going bad fuel level and water temp would both peg or go to empty.

For your fuel level gage, unplug the wire at the sending unit and run a jumper from the fuel tank sender wire directly to a body ground only long enough to see if the gage deflects to full. If it does go to full, then you may have a bad sender, or a sunk float. I have seen these old brass floats develop pin holes and fill with fuel. The repop senders are not as accurate as the originals, so if its that , i recommend removing it, cleaning it up with some tarnex, or CLR and ohming out the sender with a meter and making sure you get a variable resistance from full to empty. I believe you can buy a new float if thats whats needed, a new filter sock, and a rubber gasket. If you can save your metal sending unit retaining ring i recommend doing so. The repop ones dont fit very well.

When back there, look for a stamped sheetmetal metal jumper that goes from the sending unit tube and attaches to the body fuel line this is the sending units ground. If its missing the gage wont work either. Check for this strap at the gas tank first. If its missing make a temp jumper ground wire from the fuel sender to body ground and see if gage works. If jumper strap is there, unplug sender wire and jump that to ground and see if gage deflects to full.

I have about a 20 test lead jumper wires with alligator clips on either end in my tool box. I bought em at radio shack premade. They come in red, white, black, yellow, green. 2 leads in each color 10 to a package. Way cheaper than you could ever make them.

See pix below for sender ground strap, and position on fuel tank line.

View attachment 1715093131

View attachment 1715093132

Thanks, this sounds like a good place to start on the fuel gage. Those pics are very helpful.


Plymouth 1968 to 1973 kit # K4093 seems like a no brainer to me. How bout you slant six dan? Looks like other variants of this carb were used on international harvester and AMC

Sounds like you and Dan agree this one will work, so thats good enough for me!


So the problem with the carb was indeed a stuck float valve as several posters have suggested. I took the bowl off, sprayed carb cleaner on everything and put it back together. Worked fine. There was a fuel leak at the bottom of the bowl gasket because someone had not seated the gasket properly before tightening the bowl bolts, but i managed to get it to hold. I also had to make a pretty sketchy homemade carb-to-intake gasket because I could not find one in local stores and I was impatient to get the carb back on (I can hear slantsixdan's blood pressure rising...) I have a picture of it, but its pretty embarrassing...