72 Duster Resurrection
If going big bolt pattern eventually, you may want to concider installing disc brakes off an 84-89 M body fifth ave, diplomat, fury. At leat this keeps it all mopar uses bigger piston calipers, and is a direct bolt in without sourcing different parts from different makes. Doctordiff even makes bushings so you can use your existing small ball joint upper control arms and not have to source the big ball joint upper arms.
Some parts you have to source for the scarebird kit for different applications include toyota previa van rotors and chevy celebrity calipers. So essentially a lighter duty rotor, and small bore caliper from a front wheel drive car. So your getting discs that stop a little better than a set of properly adjusted drums your replacing them with. Personally i will pass on that, and install a disc setup that came off a mopar RWD setup designed to stop a heavier car with a V8.
If you plan on a V8 later, and eventually hopping it up, you would be way ahead in more ways with the mopar setup. M body stuff is not that expensive and should be all over the junkyards by you. I got mine for $100 everything from the spindle out to the outer dust cap. About $6 in grade 8 bolts and nuts, a pair of A body disc brake lines, and a new diplomat M body master cylinder on closeout from rock auto for $12.29. Sure i still need to buy A body disc brake lower ball joints. If you source your stuff right, you could do a complete M body setup with everything to install it including master cylinder for about $250-$300 and keep it all factory mopar. If you rebuild the calipers yourself, about $5 for a seal kit to do both, and get the used rotors turned about $10 each instead of buying new rotors $50 each and remanned calipers about $30 each you can save even more money on an M body setup.
Maybe from a dollars standpoint just get the drum setup working decent enough to drive the car. Then sit back and think of what you want to do. If you go scare bird, the rotors and calipers are a hodge podge of different makes, and if deciding to redrill to big bolt pattern with that kit, you will end up paying a machinest to redrill everything to a larger pattern anyways. This makes your previa rotors a 1 off pair, and if you replace them later on, you will have to redrill the next pair. Just seems like too much expense to try and go cheap to me IMHO.
See below scare bird brackets, and 2 different scarebird kits. One for a 5 bolt 4" circle (what you currently have) and a scarebird kit for 5 bolt 4.50" bolt circle. About the only thing these kits do is allow you to use your existing drum brake spindles and lower ball joints. They certainly are not cheap either. Using your existing drum brake spindles is fine, if theres not a factory bolt on disc brake setup that fits your vehicle. I went this route on a 1960 chevy el camino i had, nothing later model in disc brakes that fit it. Plus the stock mopar caliper mounts are pretty heavy duty compared to these flat cut steel plates.
If going big bolt pattern eventually, you may want to concider installing disc brakes off an 84-89 M body fifth ave, diplomat, fury. At leat this keeps it all mopar uses bigger piston calipers, and is a direct bolt in without sourcing different parts from different makes. Doctordiff even makes bushings so you can use your existing small ball joint upper control arms and not have to source the big ball joint upper arms.
Some parts you have to source for the scarebird kit for different applications include toyota previa van rotors and chevy celebrity calipers. So essentially a lighter duty rotor, and small bore caliper from a front wheel drive car. So your getting discs that stop a little better than a set of properly adjusted drums your replacing them with. Personally i will pass on that, and install a disc setup that came off a mopar RWD setup designed to stop a heavier car with a V8.
If you plan on a V8 later, and eventually hopping it up, you would be way ahead in more ways with the mopar setup. M body stuff is not that expensive and should be all over the junkyards by you. I got mine for $100 everything from the spindle out to the outer dust cap. About $6 in grade 8 bolts and nuts, a pair of A body disc brake lines, and a new diplomat M body master cylinder on closeout from rock auto for $12.29. Sure i still need to buy A body disc brake lower ball joints. If you source your stuff right, you could do a complete M body setup with everything to install it including master cylinder for about $250-$300 and keep it all factory mopar. If you rebuild the calipers yourself, about $5 for a seal kit to do both, and get the used rotors turned about $10 each instead of buying new rotors $50 each and remanned calipers about $30 each you can save even more money on an M body setup.
Maybe from a dollars standpoint just get the drum setup working decent enough to drive the car. Then sit back and think of what you want to do. If you go scare bird, the rotors and calipers are a hodge podge of different makes, and if deciding to redrill to big bolt pattern with that kit, you will end up paying a machinest to redrill everything to a larger pattern anyways. This makes your previa rotors a 1 off pair, and if you replace them later on, you will have to redrill the next pair. Just seems like too much expense to try and go cheap to me IMHO.
See below scare bird brackets, and 2 different scarebird kits. One for a 5 bolt 4" circle (what you currently have) and a scarebird kit for 5 bolt 4.50" bolt circle. About the only thing these kits do is allow you to use your existing drum brake spindles and lower ball joints. They certainly are not cheap either. Using your existing drum brake spindles is fine, if theres not a factory bolt on disc brake setup that fits your vehicle. I went this route on a 1960 chevy el camino i had, nothing later model in disc brakes that fit it. Plus the stock mopar caliper mounts are pretty heavy duty compared to these flat cut steel plates.