1970 Duster project in Sweden

Thanks for the kudos on my gage panel. I cut off the plastic pointer from the volt gage and super glued my old ammeter needle on so it matched the other gages. You can see that in the last pic. There is also a potentiometer on the volt gage to fine tune it with a volt meter to get the needle where you want it. At 13V mine is set to be slightly above half on the gage.

Yes Trebor, it is a weak link. As you add accessories and install a larger alternator to keep up with them, this will increase amp load along with the connections at the bulkhead being old and probably weak from corrosion or tarnish you run the risk of the bulkhead connector over heating and melting where these 2 wires go through it.

I dont agree with the second schematic completely where it shows running the red and black wires through the firewall itself bypassing the bulkhead connector altogether unless the connector is already melted. The reason for this is, once the ammeter is bypassed and alternator output is going directly to the battery and not running thru the bulkhead, the amp load at the bulkhead connector is now conciderably less. Plus now you now have 2 heavy gage wires feeding electrical from the battery thru the bulkhead. Whatever your total amp draw would be going into the car at the bulkhead connector is now halved because its split through 2 wires.

At this point, unpin the connectors at the bulkhead one wire at a time, clean them, tighten the females and repin them. After all the connector pins are clean, you can also add some electrical contact grease to the connector to keep moisture out. I use a product called Tarnex and a small steel wire brush to clean the pins, then dip in small cup of water to rinse off, dry, and repin. You may have something similar in sweden for removing tarnish and green corrosion